Before my arrival in Mendoza in April, 2014, I was a distinct luddite when it came to wine. Sure, I’d sip on a hearty Barossa shiraz with dinner, or polish off a bottle of Pinot Noir without hesitation, but I had no connection with the wine in hand, no engagement with the grape-given goodness I was consuming. Mendoza changed all of that. Arriving in this gorgeous town at the border of the Patagonia steppe at the tender age of 23, my mind was ill-prepared for the change it was about to go through. Dropping my bags at the hostel and setting out for the nearest pub, I asked for the local drop upon arrival. A wine with a deep purple hue arrived before me, served up by the smiling barman. I stared at it dubiously. I wasn’t a wine guy, and two months on the continent had thoroughly turned me into a ‘drink-the-largest-size-beer-you-can-find-guy.’ But what did I have to lose? I lifted the glass to my lips. What followed was earth-shattering, awe-inspiring plush-plum goodness, Malbec.

Read my guide to bar hopping in Mendoza here.

For the first time in my life I drank something that I knew had a sense of place. A context. Some sort of anchor. As I swallowed those first mouthfuls of the purple delight I felt my pretensions rising and my inhibitions lowering. Maybe I was a wine guy? Maybe I could become a serious-wine guy? As I drank that fortuitous goblet down and promptly ordered another I felt myself falling in love. In love with wine, in love with the town, in love with Latin America. The days that followed in the beautiful provincial capital were some of the fondest that I spent in the entire continent. I look back on them with such purple-hazed nostalgia that I’m compelled to commit something to paper. So, I ask you, marry me, Mendoza. I get down on one knee for you for these reasons;

Malbec

Malbec. Oh velvety, plush Malbec. How I love you. You venerated grape, you sumptuous companion, I truly love you. i love you and the city that I most associate with you. The national varietal of Argentina, Malbec, is a favourite amongst oenophiles and casual wine drinkers alike. Originally hailing from Bordeaux, this little varietal has gone from strength to strength since being introduced to Argentina in the mid 19th-century, and can now be found growing all across the country. However, it is in the areas surrounding Mendoza that you get the truly good plonk. Through experimentation with location and planting in the early 1990’s, local vitners created a Malbec that is a class above the rest, high-altitude Malbec. Found in vineyards from the Lujan de Cuyo to the Uco valley, the quality of the drop produced around Mendoza can’t be understated - think gorgeous soft blackberry flavours, rustic tannins and a soft, velvety mouthfeel.

For a true experience with Malbec whilst in Mendoza, be sure to visit the local wineries, either on a tour or via the cellar-door. The best wineries can all be seen via a bus or bike tour. While this post in no way is aimed to serve as a guide to the wineries of Mendoza (there is another post for that), check out Cartena Zapata, Vistalba, Bodega Salentein and Trapiche for a genuine taste of the region.

The Food

It’s a well-known rule of thumb that any region producing world class wine will also attract some world class chefs. Mendoza is no different, and the town boasts more eating experiences than a town its size has a right to. You’re in Asado country here, and the town is fit to bursting with restaurants cooking meat as if it were a science. Think Francis Mallman, think open-fire cooked legs of lamb and cow, and you’re on the right track. For a splurge, Restaraunt 1884 has you covered on world-class fare, or Azafran gives you the option of eating food a cut above the rest in a wine cellar - ask for the poncho to help ward off the chill. The mere option of dining at either in the future gives me chills in a way that only bespeaks love.

While the regions around Mendoza are largely known for the vineyards producing Malbec, several of the valleys surrounding the town are equally famous for their Olive trees, and produce some olive oil that can form a meal all on its own. The memory of one night spent in town, drinking Malbec, dipping artesian bread into a tasting platter of various olive oils that we’d picked up across the Maipu valley stands out as one of the purest in all my travels.

PATAGONIA

Ok, so claiming that Mendoza is within Patagonia is a bit like claiming that a Vodka cranberry is a cocktail. While both are strictly true, saying so does both parties something of an injustice. However, for me, Mendoza was the gateway to Patagonia - where I left the dry deserts behind and descended into the untamed and sublime beauty of Patagonia. For this, I love Mendoza doubly, for being both the gateway and the gateway-drug for Patagonia. Here, you can see large swathes of grassland spreading off the highway like algae-blooms, can see the countryside becoming lush and green in a distinctly more temperate fashion. For me, Mendoza is the time and place when I knew that I’d entered a thoroughly different environment. For this, I love it.

While the list above in no way provides an accurate guide to the city of Mendoza, it does capture my reasons for loving the place, and I hope it inspires others to spend a little longer there. I love this town, I love this moment in my life, and I can’t wait to be back there.