Eats and Drinks in Milan
Milan is known for its art, design, architecture and fashion and you can sure as hell count on the Milanese good taste to flow through to their food and wine. The magic of the aperitivo in Italy is what you are looking for. Often confused for ‘happy hour’, aperitivo is more of a cultural institution, especially in Northern Italy and we have been told Milan is the best place for it. Similar to the concept of true tapas in Spain, aperitivo usually consists of small plates of food or access to a buffet along with your pre dinner drink (or an aperitif) for 10 or so euros. Not really designed as a full dinner, locals use aperitivo is like a social starter - remember Italians eat meals late so aperitivo usually falls somewhere between 7pm-9pm, the latter being the normal time for dinner.
Keep an eye out for signs around most of Milan for these aperitivo sessions - if you see ANYTHING in english or the word cocktail or ‘happy hour’- run - it’s a tourist trap.
Of course why even Italy if you aren’t going to kick on to some homely traditional trattoria or peruse a cantina’s lista vini. Blow is a range of eats and drinks ranging in price and all located on the map below. Prego!
Drinks
Cantine Isola - Must See
Cantine Isola is why you travel. There is nothing pretentious about this hole in the wall, historic Milanese bottle shop despite their insane inventory of Italian and international wines. Not just a bottle shop but a bar you can sit in for a good aperitivo session before heading off for a late dinner. A must in Milan. We sat in the front courtyard and drank a bottle of crisp Italian/Slovenian skin contact white accompanied by an array of Bruschetta from tomato to anchovy.
Cantina Urbana modern wine
A modern polished concrete wine bar that is actually make their low intervention wine on site! This joint hasn’t quite been picked up on the tourist radar yet and offers food and wine along with 1 hour tour of the wine making process with 3 wines and tasting board for 25 euro. If you are looking for something more substantial their kitchen in the winery bar is open Tuesday - Saturday 10am to midnight and Sunday 5 pm to midnight.
Signorvino touristy but central
Have you heard of the Duomo? Of course you have it’s not exactly off the beaten track (some would say it is the track itself). Welp Signorvino is an extensive bottle shop that conveniently looks right at it - their whole thing is wine but they do have a lunch and dinner menu but I would advise perusing the shelves and getting a take away to drink on your balcony back at the airbnb.
Lambiczoon not wine
Tired of wine? I’m not sure that has ever happened to me but if you are looking to check out Milan’s brewery culture head over toe Lambiczoon. This gastropub showcases local and international beers and eats are mostly fancy pub food. Great for a boozy lunch followed by a passeggiata for digestive purposes.
Eats (and more drinks)
Brutto Anatroccolo
Il Brutto Anatroccolo Local - must see
Handwritten daily menu, check - all in Italian, yup - local cuisine, you betcha - mains all under 10 euro, stay blessed. This outfit is doing Millanese right, traditional stews, pastas and meats between 5 and 9 euros and a half Litre of house wine for 5 euros, this is living - the Italian way.
To get to this trattoria is a bit of a trek but Milan is a walkable city and you are going to need a passeggiata (after food walk) after a trip to Il Brutto Anatroccolo (The Ugly Duckling). This is living like a Milano local. Lunch from 12-3 and dinner opens at 9pm this traditional eatery is just off the trendy Navigli district and is packed out with Millanese day and night, weekday or weekend. The busy floor staff whip around with baskets of fresh bread and olive oil and glide through the packed check-cloth tables to deliver their carafe’s. As of time of writing there is no website so
Antica Trattoria della Pesa Traditional (and a little pricey)
One of the oldest restaurants in Milan, this adorable check floored eatery - meals here are proudly traditional in the Lombard or northern style so think more meat and butter rather than tomatoes and olive oil. This is a bit of an institution in Milan so prices are a little higher than what you can get around the place - be warned.
Vinoir Modern Wine Bar - must see
I loved this place. A walk along the canal through the bustle of Navigli to get to this local natural wine bar and restaurant you could be forgiven for feeling almost like a local. There will be few tourists here only impassioned young creatives and immaculately dressed and groomed locals gesticulating wildly over beautiful wine and creative modern Italian food. The walls are lined floor to ceiling with a vast array of bottles in varietal order and you can get them to drink in or take away. This place was a treat for us as it is not cheap, but in line with Australian standards for a wine bar. The owner kindly wrote us a list of pizza and pasta places in Milan that are well respected in the local hospitality circles.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello Modern
A cheaper option than Antica, Nuovo Macello’s prices hover between 12 and 28 euros across their menu but they do offer a 4 course chef’s tasting menu at a reasonable 36 euros.
U Barba Modern
Modern Italian for a reasonable price - a local favourite this place offers delicious eats and a good selection of wine. A little hard to find but hey - thats why google maps exists. Enjoy.
Pastamadre Pasta
Recommended to us by the delightful people at Vinoir, Pastamadre is no Ugly Duckling. Here you will be having al a carte, al dente pastas with a fresh twist. We had Octopus Ragu and spaghetti fish tartare which were both outstanding, along with, of course, a bottle of local red and a vermouth at the end to wash it all down. An absolute delight. Meals range from 13 to 20 euro and bottles of wine between 18 and 45 euro.
Crosta Pizza
The catch-cry of this delightful eatery is basically “for the love of bread!”. An all day Pizza and artesian bread for eat in or take away. From sweet or savoury breakfasts all the way through to aperitif, this place has the glutenous goods to reward your hard earned hunger after a day of museum, duomo and ancient archway viewings.
Pastamadre
Special Occasion ($$$$)
Enrico Bartolini
Located on the third floor of the Museum of Cultures MUDEC - Enrico Bartolini eponymous restaurant is one of 6 across Italy. Bartolini is the only chef in the history of the Michelin Guide to have been awarded four stars at the same time, including two for this branch in Milan. This is fine dining prepare you wallet - the seven course degustation is an eye watering 200 euros pp. Safe to say, We did not attend.
Ristorante Savini
Inside of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Italy’s oldest and most beautiful shopping gallery lies Ristorante Savini. Antique furnishing with some rooms overlooking the shopping plaza - 5 courses will set you back around 120 euro pp and 8 courses 170 euro. You’ll find locals, business lunches and tourists alike amongst the clientele.
A map of all of the above (plus a few extras we heard about along the way)