A Day Trippers Guide to Palermo
Palermo was our first stop in Sicily. Immediately after getting off the overnight ferry from the mainland we were thrust into this heaving and vibrant port city, with little idea of what to do, where to eat and what to see. Luckily, we were treated to a few perfect days of exploring Sicily’s capital and came up with this guide for how you can spend your precious days here.
Start your day off correctly by wandering Palermo’s gorgeous markets. Palermo has 4 chief markets, Bollaró, Capo, Vucciria and Borgo Vecchio. However, given that time is of the essence, I’m going to recommend that you start off just with Bollaró and Vucciria. They are both located close to the heart of the city, and stretch over several blocks; comprising of winding alleyways and wide plazas, teeming with fresh seafood, fruit and meat. Both are heavily focussed on food, so you’ll be able to pick up a cheap Arancini ball, loaf of bread, bundle of fruit and an espresso for less than you’d pay at home. I’d strongly recommend dedicating a few hours to exploring both of these markets - they are unique, utterly enticing, and thoroughly enjoyable to wander around. I wrote another post about them over here, if you’re looking for more information.
Straight after the markets, I’d say it’s probably time to do a bit of sightseeing. Palermo has you absolutely covered on that front. Start off at the centrally located Palermo Cathedral (Via Vittorio Emanuele, 90134 Palermo). Open everyday from 7am to 7pm, this cathedral is a sprawling homage to Catholicism, and contains extremely gorgeous artwork, frescoes and a shrine to a local Priest whom was assassinated by the Mafia. Wander the main parts of the church before paying 5 euros to ascend to the top floor, which will give you a fairly decent view of the surrounding town.
After the Palermo Cathedral, I’m going to suggest that you check out the Palermo Regional Archaeological Museum (Piazza Olivella, 24, 90133 Palermo). Across 3 floors, the museum houses an impressive collection of Etruscan, Roman, Egyptian and Greek works, some of them coming from the famous Selinunte temples site (which you should also check out more about in this post over here.) The works are thoughtfully presented and the setting is particularly pleasant: expect some beautiful courtyards with exotic trees and bubbling fountains.The best part? Admission is free. Free I tell you.
If you’ve been moving through the above at the pace we did, it’s high time for lunch by now. My personal pick for where you need to go? Trattoria Trapani. Located back towards the train station in the heart of town, Trattoria Trapani is just far enough away from the main tourist drag to ensure that it’s authentic, made for locals, and very, very cheap. We wrote all about our experience about Trattoria Trapani over here, but let me just say this; if they’re offering the swordfish linguine or spaghetti, buy it. You will never, ever, ever regret - best meal that I ate in Sicily. Pair this with a carafe of their perfect Rosé Di Cassa, and you’ll be well placed to keep exploring the city.
After lunch, get yourself back in the mode for cultural appreciation. I’m going to suggest that you head to the Sicilian Regional Art Gallery, tucked away in Abatellis Palace (Via Giuseppe Maria Capodieci, 16, 96100 Siracusa). The Palace itself is amazing, a combination of Catalan and Gothic style, and dates back to when Sicily was it’s own kingdom (the good old days?). The museum houses an important collection of paintings, statues and frescoes. Check out the“Triumph of Death” fresco (anonymous work), The “Virgin Annunciate” by Anthony of Messina, Eleanor of Aragon bust and the “Malvagna” tryptic, painted by Mabuse, all are amazing. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday: 9 am-6.30 pm and Saturday/Sunday from 9 am to 1 pm, and will cost 8 euros to enter.
By now, the sun should be thoroughly on it’s way down, and your feet should be throughly suffering from ‘museum-foot.’ Soak up the dying rays (it’s always sunny in Palermo) and take yourself to your final stop of the day, The Vucciria market (90134, Via dei Frangiai, 50, 90133). While dead during the dead, the Vucciria Market comes alive at night, and houses the best bars, restaraunts and clubs in the city. I would strongly recommend that you check out Taverna Azzura (The Blue Bar) for a drink (Via Maccherronai, 15, 90133). Fitting as both a mob hangout, cheap drinking hole and neighbourhood bar, taverna Azzura will absolutely fit any thirst-quenching needs that you have, and will do it for a fair price. While low on seating options, you can order a beer from the bar, chat with a local or two, or sit in the alleyway outside - anything goes here. The barmen are amazing, and deifnitely have a story or two to share. I wrote about this little spot over here, if you wanna read a bit more on the topic. For dinner? I’m going to suggest that you head to the nearby Ancient Focacceria del Massimo Da Basile (Via Bara All'Olivella, 76, 90133 Palermo). Open everyday of the week bar Sunday, this place specializes in down-home Sicilian cooking, and will serve you up some of the freshest and best seafood treats you’re gonna find in town. Your wallet and tastebuds will thank you, earnestly so.
Afterwards, if you’re still feeling spry, why not seek out a nightcap At Botteghe Colletti, an excellent and very cheap bar located just down the road on Via Allesandro Paternostro. Well worth checking out, if you have any stamina left!
Traveling Sicily? read our guide to Syracuse over here.
Any questions about what to do in Palermo? Hit us up in the comments below! Been to Palermo and have some better ideas? You know what to do - hit us up in the comments, please and thank you.