The difficult to pronounce Ptuj (say it like you’re sneezing: tooie) is a must-see for any visitor to Slovenia. Full to bursting with history, culture and decent food and wine, Ptuj is one of the less explored corners of Slovenia that definitely deserves a lot more love.

WHY GO

Though somewhat off the tourist trail of Slovenia, Ptuj is thoroughly worth a visit. Ptuj is officially Slovenia’s oldest continuously inhabited town, and the place absolutely emanates history. The streets are stunning, old and picture perfect. Each corner is more photogenic than the last, each new view of the central castle more special and each local you meet more hospitable and kind than the last.

Though not teeming with activities, Ptuj is the type of town that rewards a few short wanders through town, a few quiet beers by the main drag or by the River Drava. The town breathes history and culture, and it is in Ptuj that you’ll escape the tourist hordes of Ljubljana and Lake Bled to enjoy some peace and quiet.

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

• For most of the year, Ptuj is a fairly sleepy and quiet little town. However, all of that changes between the 15-25 of February, when the Kurentovanje Festival takes place. This is an annual ethnocultural festival, and there are generally about 10000 visitors per day for this festival. We recently spent some time in Ptuj during the festival and had an excellent time, however, be warned that if visiting during February you’ll need to book accomodation well in advance as most will book out weeks before hand. To read more about the Kurentovanje festival, read my post on the topic here.

• Ptuj is located in the far east of Slovenia, quite close to the border with Hungary. This region is known as the plains of Drava, and gets really, really cold during winter. Average temperatures hover between -5°c and 4°C between December to February. Definitely pack warm clothes, a good coat and some boots, as there is a chance of mud and snow.

• As Ptuj is a tourist town, many of the locals will speak English. However, don’t expect all of them to immediately jump into English as soon as you say ‘hello,’ - many of the older residents speak very little English, and not everyone in the hospitality industry will speak it. Like everywhere in Slovenia, know how to say thank you at least - ‘hvala.’

• The peak tourist season during Ptuj is similar to the rest of Europe, between May to September. During these months you can expect there to be some tour groups, possible tour buses, and many local Slovenians visiting, especially for the thermal baths. my advice is to visit in the off-season - though the weather will be colder, it’s likely you’ll have sunny days and will definitely have the whole town to yourself. Fairly handy.

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WHAT TO DO

• Ptuj Castle: The centre-point of town, Ptuj Castle overlooks all of Ptuj and is open for visitors from 10 am-5 pm daily during the off season and 9 am-6 pm during summer. While you can walk up to the castle and enjoy the stunning views from the top of the main plaza for free, you’ll have to pay to enter the castle itself, which also contains the regional museum. The museum hosts a collection of items marking feudal culture from the 16th to the 20th century. Displays include a collection of musical instruments, medieval arms and period furnishings. One of the most interesting is the collection of traditional carnival masks from Ptuj area. Entry cost: 2.50€/3€/4€ (child/senior/adult).

• Thermal Baths: Just outside the historic section of Ptuj, across the river, sits an impressive thermal baths complex. The baths are now owned by the hotel across the road, but can be visited by non guests for 6 euros per person. There is a lovely series of baths, saunas, a swimming pool and a waterslide that are open year round, and an outdoors pool that we definitely avoided during winter. An excellent way to spend an afternoon. For more information, head here.

• Town Tower: The town tower on Slovenski trg is possibly the most recognisable sign of Ptuj, outside of the castle. The tower is excellent to take photographs of, but also contains the Povoden Museum at the bottom, which holds a collection of stone memorials. It includes pieces of tombstones, urns, sacrifice altars, relief votive slabs and ashlars. Worth visiting.

• Orpheus Monument: Located just at the foot of the town tower sits a 5 m high tombstone that has become the symbol of the town. The memorial is the biggest ever found in the Roman province of Upper Pannonia and the mythological scenes it depicts gave it its popular name - the Orpheus Memorial. In the Middle Ages, the stone was used to chain criminals to it, which severely damaged the inscription, but is a pretty cool story to relate. Completely free to check out.

• Mithras Shrine III: A roman temple that was built in the mid-3rd century, located in Ptuj. Contains mainly sacrificial altars, with dedications of soldiers belonging to the Roman legions under Flavius Aprus. The temple consists of three sections, of which the central one is lowered. 0.50€/1€ (child/adult). 10€ for guided tour. Definitely worth stopping by at.

THE FESTIVALS

Since medieval times, Ptuj has been the centre of festivals for the entire region, encompassing large parts of Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary and Austria. As such, there are a range of festivals that continue to occur in Ptuj on a yearly basis, all of which are worth checking out.

• Kurentovanje Festival: This is the biggest carnival in Slovenia, and will run from 15-25 February each year. This event includes the ‘jump’ of the Kurent, the demon faced costume that thousands of people will be dressed as to scare away winter. An amazing event to see, and one that you should check out if you ever have the chance. We wrote a whole post about it over here.

• Katarinin Sejem: Catherine's Fair is the smallest of the three main fairs, which take place on the streets and squares of the town on November 25. Comprises live bands, traditional dancing and the chance to see a large number of sellers offering a variety of goods. While I haven’t been, I’m told there is also a huge range of interetsing curios and vintage items on offer.

• Jurjev Sejem: George’s Fair opens the season for traditional fairs in Ptuj. It takes place on the streets and squares of the town on April 23. There are approximately 150 manufacturers and sellers from all over Slovenia that gather on this fair and offer a great variety of products. On this day a Medieval market is also organized and it is a thing that shouldn't be missed out. Expect costumes, lots of alcohol and a chance to haggle over items like a medieval fishwife.

• Ožbaltov Sejem: Oswald's fair happens once a year in the old town of Ptuj on the 5th August (except if it is Sunday, then it happens on Monday, the 6th). It’s a real interesting festival that has all the craftspeople from the region come and present their wares; you can see and buy just about anything you’d ever want - look out for traditional wooden products, honey, dried fruits, clothes, antiquities and many more.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

• Pizzeria Zlatonog: The oldest pizzeria in Ptuj, Zlatonog is a no-nonsense affair that serves up huge servings of thick crust Slovenian style pizza for very fair prices. An absolute must visit when in town. Address: Slomškova ulica 20, 2250 Ptuj, Slovenia.

• Gostilna Ribic: A slightly more expensive option, but very, very tasty. They serve up amazing local specialties. They were really busy during the festival, but we managed to get a table after a short wait and the food was super good. Imagine slow cooked stews and weinerschnitzel and you’ll be spot on. Address: Dravska ulica 9, 2250 Ptuj, Slovenia.

• Kavarna Bodi: Is it a café? Is it a bar? Is it a purveyor of vintage playboy magazines? Who knows. Its cosy, calm, and the service is pretty good. You can get decent craft beers here, and they make a fairly decent coffee as well. Stop by in the afternoon and sit on the patio out the front - you’ll have the best view of life moving by in town. Address: Ulica heroja Lacka 8, 2250 Ptuj, Slovenia

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WHERE TO SLEEP

• Park Hotel Ptuj: Pretty nice place that will set you back 47 - 126 euro per night. We didn’t sleep here, but had a beer with some Hungarian guys who were sleeping here, and they ahd good things to say. Address: Prešernova ulica 38, 2250 Ptuj, Slovenia.

• Hotel Mitra: An upmarket joint in the heart of town. Definitely a good place to stay, and a room will cost you between 50-100 euro per night. Address: Prešernova ulica 6, 2250 Ptuj, Slovenia

• Ptuj's Campground: Open year-round and close by to town. Will cost between 25-50 euro per night, and has really good facilities (and is very close to the famous thermal baths of Ptuj).

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