Slow Times in Bariloche
Located in the south-west of Argentina, San Carlos de Bariloche (just call it Bariloche) may appear at first as though it had been plucked from the Swiss Alps. Not a corner of this town has escaped gabled roofing, wide eaves, exposed beams and chalet style dwellings that appear to be more at home in Legano rather than Patagonian Argentina. The streets are full of chocolate shops and Swiss-style tourist experiences. However, after spending a few days here you’ll find that the town has a charm all of its own.
BARILOCHE
WHERE: Northern Patagonia, western Argentina.
WHY: Excellent hiking, Swiss Chalet vibes.
TIME: 3 nights
GETTING IN
If you’re travelling on a budget, then your main option of reaching Bariloche is via bus. The most common bus routes for getting into Bariloche include travelling south from Mendoza (13 hours - approx $56 US for semi-cama), west from Buenos Aires (23 hours, approx $80 US), north from El Calafate, Esquel (time depending on how far south you leave) or south-east from Osorno in Chile (approx 6 hours, $35 US). The service you receive on the bus will largely be determined by what type of ticket you purchased (cama, semi-cama or super-cama), however, any long-distance bus trip in Argentina is likely going to involve you being fed a meal (with vegetarian options). The main bus station of Bariloche is located about 3 km from downtown - when you arrive you’ll have the option of either walking the lengthy uphill track into town or catching a taxi - I opted for the taxi, which coast about $2 US.
If catching an overnight bus ins’t your thing, Bariloche is also serviced by a tiny airport, which is located about 10 km from the city centre. However, very few airlines service Bariloche, and as of 2019, it appears as though you can only fly direct from Mendoza or Buenos Aires - with the price of a ticket usually being fairly prohibitive. My advice for those who have the time is to catch the bus. No matter which direction you’re heading in Argentina you’ll be sure to pass by breathtaking scenery, a fact which only seems to be magnified in Patagonia.
GETTING AROUND
Bariloche is a fairly small town, with the Centro Cívico (city centre) being barely larger than a few main streets. Any accommodation that you choose to stay in will most likely be in walking distance to the centre of town. Your first stop when arriving in Bariloche is going to be exploring the town itself, all of which can be done in an afternoon. Bariloche is renowned for the swiss-ski-lodge architecture found in its town centre. Log and grey-stone buildings are home to souvenir shops, exclusive boutiques, and outdoor activity stores. Walk up and down the main drag - the stroll should be pleasant, and if you’re feeling peckish, the centro civico is full of restaurants and cafés. The highlight of any walk through town is the Neo-Gothic cathedral, which looms out over the lake. Look for the St Bernards dogs whilst you are here - their presence harks back to a famous dog in the area from the 1960’s - just don’t get caught taking photos of them, their owners will likely charge you a fee for the pleasure. While you’re down there, take a stroll across the lakefront - the crystalline blue water will be magnificent, and the cold breeze coming across the shore should be enough to wake even the least-rested bus-traveler. Streets Moreno, Mitre and Ada Maria Elfin will be your best bet.
WHAT TO DO
Most travelers coming to Bariloche are likely here for the surrounding activities. The town’s picturesque location in Nahuel Huapi National Park poses it as being the ideal location for a range of outdoor activities. I spent my week in Bariloche cruising through the town, sipping on wine, and taking in some truly natural splendour on hikes nearby. Read my guide on hikes to complete around Bariloche here.
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi: The biggest pull of Bariloche is its national park, Nahuel Huapi. The park is best suited to being seen from one of the many walking trails, but can also be visited by car. The more adventurous visitor can raft or kayak on the Lago Nahuel Huapi, a lake that was formed from melted glaciers and is surrounded by stunning snow-capped mountains. Visitors can usually book tours and activities through their hotel.
El Bolson: About a two hour drive from Bariloche lies the picturesque, chalet inspired village of El Bolson. Famous for it’s German heriatge (established by German immigrants), El Bolson produces a huge array of beer, cider and cheese. It prides itself on its focus on ecological living and organic farming, and is located near a range of popular hiking routes, one of which, Cajón de Azul, leads to a small vibrant blue lake - one of the best views this side of Torres Del Paine.
Volcan Lanin: Further out from the city of Bariloche itself is the volcano Lanín. Located in the Lanin national park, the cone strikes up 3700 metres from sea level, casting an imposing feature on the skyline. It is possible to climb, but I’d only recommend that you do so within a guided group (book here). While the volcano hasn’t erupted for 10,000 years, it has not officially been declared extinct. The crater itself is occluded by the glacier found at the peak of the mountain.
Villa La Angostura: High up in the mountains that surround Bariloche you can can find the small town of Villa la Angostura. Tucked away in the Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes (named for the arrayan tree endemic to the Argentinina - Chile border region). Visitors can bike or walk through the forest, or alternatively get a boat across the lake to reach the park. The nearby hiking trails also offer fantastic views of lake Nahuel Huapi.I would thoroughly recommend any visitor to the area checking out the hike through Arrayanes forest - it is genuinely magical - like, Disney-level magical.
Bariloche Museum: Inside one of Centro Cívico’s Swiss chalets is Bariloche’s museum. It contains a number of exhibits relating to the history of the national park and its surrounding area, specifically archaeological finds, natural history and indigenous artefacts. Most interesting is the Sala Pueblos Originarios, which examines the native people who lived around the area, notably the Mapuche people whose practices are still common today, just across the border in Chile. For a break from the outdoors, this museum provides plenty of information that visitors will find adds to their appreciation of Bariloche and what it has to offer. Opening hours: Tue-Fri: 10am-12.30pm, 2pm-7pm; Sat: 10am-5pm (closed Sunday/Monday)
Ski: If here during winter, then the surrounding areas are likely to contain some of the best ski fields in all of South America. Most popular in the local area is Cerro Cathedral, boasting 34 lifts, runs for all skills levels, terrain parks, backcountry, and a range of accomodation options. Find out more here.
WHERE TO EAT
Taberna Breogan Celta: Also located on the main drag of San Martin, Taberna Breogan Celta featured local smoked wild game. Especially recommended is the venison, wild boar, salmon, and two kinds of cheese. (San Martin 405, San Carlos De Bariloche)
Morfys: A cafe near Centro Civico is a good place for quick bite. A set meal with a drink costs $2 US. Food isn’t particularly inspiring, but it will fill you up without coming close to damaging your account balance. (Mitre 10, R8400 San Carlos de Bariloche)
El Boliche de Alberto: Some say that you’ll find the best meat in Bariloche here. Whilst certainly not cheap, the hearty meals served up at El Boliche definitely live up to the hype and will fill you up after a long day of hiking. (Villegas 347, San Carlos de Bariloche)
El Refugio del montañes: A tonic to the otherwise tourist-trap vibe to Bariloche, El Refugio serves up family-style parilla quickly, for a fair price, and in a very tasty fashion. Expect to pay around $15 US for a meal. (San Martin 590, San Carlos De Bariloche)
Where to stay
Bariloche Hostel,: (info@barilochehostel.com.ar). A traditional mountain house located in downtown San Carlos de Bariloche, just a few blocks from the Nahuel Huapi Lake. Run with love by it’s owners, you can expect a homey feel and a warm atmosphere. (Salta 528, San carlos de Bariloche).
La Justina: La Justina offers spacious rooms, cozy common spaces for relaxing, free internet and breakfast, a well stocked kitchen, and very friendly owners. They can help you with any tourist info you need, and will rent bikes. (Quaglia 726, San carlos de Bariloche)
Costa Azul Apart: Costa Azul Apart offers 21 cozy apartments that feature standard amenities like cable TV and a private toilet and bath. Includes Wi-Fi access, car rental and tour assistance, and room service. (Av. Bustillo 4200, San Carlos De Bariloche)
Hostel 41 below: (info@hostel41below.com). Central quiet location, Kiwi owned and run, Lake view, comfortable chilled out living, Extensive music selection. Fun, young atmosphere. Many tour options to book right there for the same prices as in town. Book swap and wi-fi throughout. Homey feel. (94 Pasaje Juramento, San Carlos De Bariloche)
Marcopoloinn Hostel: (info@marcopoloinn.com.ar). Modern, clean hostel. Free breakfast, fast internet, large common area with pool, tv and bar. Also has in house tour agency. Book library/exchange. Good value. Dorms from $10 USD a night. (Salta 422, San Carlos De Bariloche)
Any questions about Mendoza? Kindly fire away in the comments section below!
A sonnet to my favourite city in Argentina