I arrived in El Calafte after a nightmarish 32 hour bus ride from the north of Argentina. En-route I encountered floods, several car crashes and what appeared to be a large team of cows that held up traffic for over an hour. However, stepping off that bush in the fresh air I knew one thing for certain. I was in Patagonia without a doubt.

why go

As far as towns go, El Calafate doesn’t have that much to recommend it. Picture the town from just about every B-grade western you’ve ever seen, and you won’t be far off. The centre of El Calafate is little more than two or three streets, with a line of shops and a supermarket. The main reason most people visit El Calafate is either as a rest on their way to Puerto Natales, and to see the Perito Moreno glacier, which is located a short drive out of town. Despite this, it is worth being prepared for your time here, as the town is full to bursting with tourist traps, and if you plan on seeing Perito Moreno glacier, you’ll need to spend at least a night here.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

• El Calafate is located in the far south of Argentine Patagonia. As you are probably aware, Patagonia can suffer some extraordinarily inclement weather regardless of season, so pack warm clothes, wet weather gear and prepare for rain, sleet and snow. I visited during the shoulder season and the days were short, the nights very, very cold, and we experienced daily rainfall. Expect the worst and hope for the best!

• The high season for El Calafate is from November to March. This is when the city will be experiencing tour buses, daily flights and generally higher tourist numbers. If visiting during these months book well ahead. planes get booked out days in advance during the high season, and accomodation often disappears as large tour groups will book them out. Also, while I visited in the low season the prices for accomodation were about two thirds as much as you’ll pay in high season - keep that in mind.

• Transport to and from El Calafate is subject to the above weather. Expect delays, detours and cancelled routes. When i visited my bus was delayed by 12 hours by flooding, and I’ve heard of other travellers who were diverted on Ruta 40 (main highway into town) by landslides and heavy flash flooding. Expect delays and plan accordingly.

• The price for basic things such as food and alcohol is extraordinarily high in town. I would strongly advise you against buying trekking gear, much food or alcohol in town, as you’ll be paying an extreme premium for it. Buy north and bring south, you’ll save heaps of money.

• The town of El Calafate is tiny. There is very little of note to do within town, but the surrounding countryside is lovely, and thoroughly worth exploring. However, if looking for excitement, monuments and museums, El Calafate will disappoint you. Bitterly.

• The airport for El Calafate is located about 20 minuets out of town. You can access the airport by asking your hostel to book you a minibus or taxi, this shouldn’t cost you more than $10 USD one way. To get into town from the airport merely go outside after disembarking and there’ll be a row of taxis out the front - DON’T pay more than $10 USD or equivalent for a ride into town, if you do, you’ve been ripped off. Ask the driver to use the meter if feeling unsure.

getting there

El Calafate isn’t really close by to any other towns of any note in Argentina or Chile. However, it is connected to the rest of Argentina by bus and plane. I personally took the bus from Bariloche, which normally would have taken around 20 hours, but took the aforementioned 32 hours due to flooding.

• Bariloche: There is a direct bus route operated by both Chalten Travel and Tasqa. Bus tickets will cost you at least $100 USD per person for semi-cama. LADE also operates a daily charter flight between Bariloche and Perito Moreno town, which will cost you $200 USD return.

• Buenos Aires: There are daily flights run from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, run by Aerolineas Argentinas. The plane will take around 2 hours and will cost you $250 USD as of 2019.

• Puerto Natales: The Chilean town of Perito Moreno is located to the south of El Calafate, and is serviced by a daily bus service. This is how I got between the towns. The bus took about 5 hours and cost me $50 USD one way. Book tickets at the bus station in El Calafate town. I’m also told that you can get a flight between Puerto Natales and El Calafate, which takes 90 minutes and is run by DAP. Heading to Puerto Natales? Read our guide on visiting here.

what to do

• Perito Moreno Glacier: This is the obvious one. if you come to El Calafate and don’t visit Perito Moreno Glacier, you are seriously, seriously blowing it. I wrote an entire guide on the topic over here, but for those not initiated, the best way to see Perito Moreno is to take a bus to the glacier, then pay the 800 peso entry fee ($13 USD) at the main gate. As of 2019 the price for a guided tour tends to be between $35 and $50 USD. In 2014 I paid $20 USD for a full day tour, but I understand these prices have increased somewhat. A full day tour to Perito Moreno will usually start really early in the morning, and you won’t get back to your hostel till dusk. Prepare accordingly. However, if you are determined to go with a tour company, go with Hielo Y Aventura - they good.

• Cycle around Lake Nimez: This is a really cheap way to get out of the town of El Calafate, and won’t cost you more than $5 USD for the pleasure. The town of El Calafate is set on the shores of Lake Nimez, but the best views of the lake and surrounds are only found by getting away from the town. To do so, hire a bike at La Barraca, which is located at the end of the main street right near the plaza (Amado 833, El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina). Take the bikes towards the lake and just follow it out of town. The views will get increasingly good as you go, and you will be afforded some stunning views of the mountains as you circle it. Shouldn’t take you more than 2 hours to complete.

• Visit a Ranch: There are a range of farms that you can visit surrounding El Calafate. These are usually located in the most pristine wilderness you can imagine and most visit to a farm, or estancia will involve you going for a horse ride. I did this while I was here, and had an awesome time. It’s such a fantastic way to see Patagonia, and you won’t get a more localised experience. While you can book with a tour agency, the easiest way is to just ask your hostel which farms are receiving guests for tours and horse back riding. Word of warning though: the guy we did our horse back tour with back in 2014 spoke absolutely no English, so we had to rely on my highly rudimentary Spanish to get by. Wasn’t too hard, as he was mainly pointing at things worth seeing, but be warned! As of 2019 the following are the ranches that I’d recommend;

  • El Galpon del Glaciar Ranch

  • Nibepo Aike Ranch

  • Rincón Ranch

WHERE TO EAT and drink

Take note - like everywhere in Patagonia food is extremely expensive in El Calafate. This is a result of the huge cost of haulage of food from the rest of Argentina. My vote? Shop at the supermarket and cook at the hostel - you’ll probably eat and drink better than by heading out. However, there are some places in town that are worth spending your money at.

• Parilla Don Pichón: A solid bar and grill in the heart of town. Though pricey, the food served here is good. Address: Puerto Deseado 242, Z9405 El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina

• Destileria Helmich: Though only open till 8 pm each night, Destileria Helmich is probably the only place in town worth stopping by for a drink. This bar uses local ingredients from the nearby Helmich family ranch to create flavors unique to Argentina and specifically the Patagonian region. Address: Av. Del Libertador 935, El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina

• La Tablita: Definitely the hot spot with locals. The steaks and grilled Patagonian lamb are second to none. I certainly ate my fill here. Address: Cnel. Rosales 26, El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina

• Sancho: A no nonsense restaraurant that skews towards the cheaper end of the spectrum for food in town. Definitely ask "Bife de Lomo relleno" - stuffed beef which is likely to taste even better now than when I ate it in 2014. Address: 25 de Mayo 90, El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina.

WHERE TO SLEEP

• Hostel and Camping el Ovejero: Great location close to the centre. Offers both dorm rooms, private rooms and camping options. They have hot showers, fairly good wifi and a restaurant on site. I slept here for two nights after doing a trek in Patagonia and found my time there to be pretty enjoyable. As of 2019 you’ll pay $16 USD for a dorm room. Address: El Calafate, Santa Cruz Province, Argentina.

• Hostel Calafate Viejo: Located only 3 blocks from the centre of town, hostel Viejo is located nicely for any day excursions or nights out (any nights out will be short-lived, trust me). Has laundry, dorm rooms, good wifi and a big kitchen. The owners only speak Spanish. As of 2019 you’ll pay $20 USD for a dorm room, though the prices are cheaper in the low season. Address: Perito Moreno 235, El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina.

There you have it - the backpackers guide to El Calafate! Any questions, hit us up in the comments section below! Like what you’ve read? Drop us a line in the comments section below!