Backpacker’s Guide to Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales
WHERE: Southern Patagonia, Chile
WHY: Gateway to Torres Del Paine National Park.
TIME: 1-2 nights
UNDERSTAND
Puerto Natales is a tiny town in the far south of Chilean Patagonia. The town itself is basically composed of a small grid of shops, houses and light industry, dissected by the main road, Avenida Santiago Bueras. While the areas around Puerto Natales have been inhabited for thousands of years by the Tehuelche peoples, the city itself was founded by largely European immigrants, and thus carries a strong legacy of British, Italian and German heritage. However, the area also underwent a large influx of settlers of Chilean origin from the nearby island of Chiloe. The town survives mainly off the tourism industry, but may of the locals are also engaged in agriculture and acquaculture.
WHY GO
Puerto Natales is the last town and point of civilisation before entering the Torres Del Paine National Park. Therefore, Puerto Natales provides your best opportunity to stock up on supplies, clothing and any information prior to commencing your trek in the national park.
Looking for more information about Torres Del Paine? Click here for my guide to hiking the W Trek, and here for my guide on how to prepare for the park.
GET IN
Most visitors arriving in Puerto Natales will be coming in from El Calafate across the border in Argentina. This is the closest major town, and any backpacker heading south will likely need to stop there first before continuing on to Puerto Natales. The route takes about six hours, and buses leave from the main bus terminal in El Calafate daily - I’d reccomend going with Bus Sur.
Puerto Natales is not serviced by an airport - the closest one is located in Punta Arenas, which receives daily flights from Santiago.
WHAT TO DO
Aside from preparing for your hike in Torres Del Paine, there are a few things to in Puerto Natales.
mylodon cave
Walk to the boatyard. Take Pedro Montt southfor about 1 km beyond the Navimag pier. Wooden fishing boats are hauled ashore for painting, repair, or sometimes just abandoned. Usually a fairly picturesque scene.
The Mylodon Cave. If you don’t know what a Mylodon is, stop reading this page and find out more about them here. Yep, that’s a big sloth. You can reach the cave where they found the remains of one by taking route 9 towards Torres del Paine National Park for about 40 km. I didn’t end up doing this, but the caves are meant to be fairly interesting, and there are some archaeological sites to check out inside too.
preparing for torres del paine
The main activity of choice in town is preparing for your hike in Torres Del Paine. While this post is by no means a guide on how to prepare for your hike in the park, your best bet for preparing for the hike revolves around stocking up at the two supermarkets in town, Unimarc and Don Bosco (both on the main street.) Both supermarkets carry a range of ‘hiking-friendly’ supplies such as noodles, freeze-dried snacks and trail mix. buy plenty of both, as you’re likely to need it. read my guide on the topic here.
If in town, you should also stop by the Erratic Rock shop (Manuel Baquedano 719, Puerto Natales), which is down the far end of town off the main drag. Erratic Rock is your absolute best bet for all things hiking rental, advice and tour booking. A staff member conducts a daily seminar at 3 pm on hiking in Torres Del Paine, and is a font for knowledge on all things hiking in the park. When we told him we planned to hike the ‘O’ trek in the shoulder season he gave us some very, very pointed advice on how to do so and stay comfortable.
GETTING TO TORRES DEL PAINE
Most hikers hoping to complete a hike in the Torres Del Paine National Park will likely spend the night in El Calafate before taking the morning bus to the trail head and entrance to the national park to commence their hike. There are two daily departure times from Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine, leaving with Buses Gomez from Puerto Natales bus station to Torres del Paine – 7:30AM and 2:30PM – and it takes about over two hours. Return buses from Laguna Amarga (the entrance at Torres del Paine) come back to Puerto Natales at 1PM and 6PM daily
EAT AND DRINK
Given how small the town is, Puerto Natales has a few fairly OK options for eating and drinking.
Frigonia restaurant - Owners are a Zambian and Chilean couple who do fusion cuisine. Worth stopping by.
Baguales Brewery + Restaurant - Only brewery in Puerto Natales. Fantastic beer with great food. Something of a "sports bar" atmosphere. Award winning beers brewed on premises. Located on Plaza de Armas.
Andres - A few block from the plaza on Ladrilleros 381 but worth the walk. Fair prices for some fairly heart local food.
La Guanaca - Located on Magallanes, 167. Pizza, crepes, desserts. Two outstanding features: crepes done right, and a genuine brick pizza oven producing what must be the best crust in all of southern Patagonia.
STAY
Singing Lamb Hostel: my top pick for where to rest your weary head whilst in town. The owners will let you rent out lockers for your excess gear you aren’t using whilst hiking. The dorm room is airy, and the communal spaces are well maintained. I have the fondest memories of cooking up a massive chicken parmigiana in the kitchen here after getting back from the park. Book here.
Backpacker's El Refugio - A great, cozy hostel with low prices, comfy beds and a safe, warm atmosphere.
Casa Cecilia - Also rents out trekking equipment as well as providing comfortable beds.
Any question, queries or concerns? Drop a line in the comments below!
2 days in the bohemian wonderland