A Quick Guide to Potosi

POTOSI

**WHERE**: Southern bolivia
**WHY:** History, adventure tourism
**TIME:** 2 nights (maximum)

Understand

Sitting at 4060 metres above sea level, Potosi makes a very solid claim for the ‘world’s highest city’ (depending on who you ask). Located in the altiplano region in the southwest of Bolivia, Potosi is easily reachable via bus from either the north or south. The town itself is located on the steep hillside of Cerro Ricco - the hill that funded the Spanish Empire for centuries - as such, most of the streets run at a considerable gradient. This, combined with the extreme altitude means that any walking you do around town will leave you out of breath. The town itself is firmly caught between old and new; every street and plaza contains buildings dating from the 16th and 17th centuries, their former splendor now starting to fade and crumble. It is this, however, that gives the town its charm - that strange blend between colonial architecture and the now growing tourist infrastructure. Everything that you’ll want to see around Potosi is reachable by foot (aside from the mine), so lace up your boots and take in a deep lungful of air, because this town is worth seeing.

Initially settled as a mining outpost by the Inca, Potosi is said to have gotten its name from oral tradition - the name an onomatopoeia for the sound of iron against ore. Potosi came to prominence after the invasion and later occupation of Latin America by the Spanish, whom continued to use the mines of Potosi - discovering rich veins of silver, zinc and iron in the hills surrounding the town. Between the mid 14th and 17th centuries, Potosi produced around 60% of the worlds silver, but did so at a colossal cost to the local indigenous population and imported African slaves, both of whom were forced to work in the horrible conditions in the mines. It is estimated that between these years up to 8 million indigenous Andean peoples perished in the mines of Potosi; often from silicosis, pneumonia, dehydration/malnutrition and from cave ins. In short, the town of Potosi is the site of an ongoing historical atrocity, standing as a stark testament to the ravages of colonialism - however, any trip to South America is incomplete without understanding and experiencing first-hand the ways that colonialism has terrorized this continent. Potosi is the living, breathing example of the damage caused by Spanish rule in this country, exemplifying the pain and suffering exacted over hundreds of years. If you are looking to understand and empathize with the ongoing plight of the Andean people, then Potosi should be on your list of destinations in South America.

getting in

For the tourist, there are two main approaches to getting into Potosi, either from the north or the south. Most travelers coming from the south will be travelling from either Uyuni, or Tupiza, whereas most heading into Potosi from the north will be travelling from either La Paz, Sucre or Oruro. For those travelling north from Argentina or Chile, you’ll notice a sharp decline in the quality of the bus that you’ll be catching into Potosi - by and large, these are not tourist buses and will often be cramped, hot, and possibly filled with farm animals on the way to market. However, the bus ride in either direction is spectacular - you’ll be travelling through the stark altiplano region - the countryside is phenomenal; think huge red rock valleys, sand whipped desert landscapes and serpentine mountain switchbacks. As of 2018, the following is the most up-to-date timetabling around catching a bus into Potosi;

There are several daily buses from Oruro (6 hours - 60 Bs).
There are hourly bus connections with Sucre (3 hours, 17 Bs).
Morning and evening buses to Tupiza (4-5 hours, Bs 40-50).
There are daily buses running from Uyuni (3 - 4 hours, Bs 40)

The main bus terminal for Potosi is now located about 2 km away from the city centre - I’d advise catching a cab to your hostel from here. This shouldn't cost any more than $1 US - the walk in is distinctly hard to appreciate when walking with a backpack at over 4000 metres - you’ll be out of breath in about .5 seconds.

While many would advise you to catch a private taxi from Sucre or Oruro - citing the relative comfort and speed of such a journey. My advice, however, is to catch the local bus. While uncomfortable and slow, the experience is utterly worthwhile - you’ll probably speak to some locals on the way, and will probably get a better sense for the town prior to entering.

WHERE TO STAY

My personal recommendation for backpackers visiting Potosi is to stay at the Casona Potosi Hostal (Corner of Chuquisaca #460 and Tarija, Potosi). The dorm that I stayed in was clean, well-maintained and had (working) hot showers adjacent. The staff here were friendly and helpful, and the hostel sits as a perfect staging point for any tour that you’ll take into the mines of Cerro Ricco). The hostels main selling point however, is the two shared plazas that line the interior of the complex - these provide a perfect place to socialize with other guests amidst former colonial splendor. Buy yourself a tall Huari Pilsener and post up beneath the large heaters that heat the plaza at night.

For other accommodation options the Koala Den (Junín 56), comes highly recommended, with guests noting its close proximity to the city centre and the inclusion of heating in the rooms. On the topic of central locations to post of up for the night, Residencial Felcar (Av Serrudo esq. Bustillos 345) and Carlos Hostal V (Calle Linares No 42) both come highly recommended - with both offering fast(ish) Wi-Fi and clean, comfortable beds.

WHAT TO DO

Potosi Mines Tour: A shocking experience, but one that is worthwhile doing. To book this tour, shop around the town for a while - my recommendation is to go through Big Deal Tours, Koala Tours (Ayacucho Street 3) or Potochji tours (Lanza street) . A tour starts with a visit to the miners' market to buy gifts for the miners like coca leaves, drinks, cigarettes or dynamite. Then you head into the mines, involving walking and crawling through it for about 2 -3 hours. Meeting with the miners inside is a significant and important experience for any visitor to Bolivia to do. Read more about the ethics of completing a tour into the mines of Potosi here, and more about my experience in the mines here.
The Royal Mint: The former royal mint of the Spanish Empire, Nacional de Moneda (Ayacocha street) is located just a few blocks from the Plaza 10 de Noviembre, and is well worth a stop for any visitor into Potosi. Entry is about $5 US ($2 US for locals), which includes both entry to the mint and a guided tour through the gallery that it now houses. Visitors will be surprised by the wealth of art on display, ranging from the early-modern to the contemporary. Moreover, the mint contains a range of artifacts from its heyday - grisly reminders of the cost of all the silver that passed through its doors. A visit is by guided tour (English and French), and takes about 2-2.5 hours.
Santa Teresa Convent: Located down the hill from downtown Potosi (Calle Santa Teresa 15, Potosi, Bolivia), the old convent is worth the walk back uphill. Though I’m usually easily fatigued by ‘another goddamn church’, the convent of Santa Teresa genuinely surprised me. The tour through the convent was a grim reminder for the often brutal and austere place of women in the colonial era of Potosi - and the church contains a solid handful of religious artworks, relics, and the usual religious paraphernalia. Well worth your time and the entry free ($3 US)
Mercado Central: My top tip for anyone visiting Potosi (or any Latin American city) is to make the city market their first port of call after dropping their bags at the hostel. Potosi is no different, and Mercado Central (corner of Bolivar and Oruro) will provide the visitor a fantastic first experience of the town. The market is actually two markets side-by-side, with one offering food (for a very cheap price) and the other offering clothing and footwear. Each market in Latin America is unique, and is always worth your while. My personal pick is for the visitor to pull up a stool at the numerous fruit juice stands (they’ll be noted by the huge piles of fruit surrounding them) and watch the market around you.
Miraflores or Tarapaya Hot Springs – Both are about a 40 minute bus ride from town. Miraflores is a public facility with pools and Tarapaya natural springs are a 20 minute walk off the main road (you need to ask the bus driver to stop at road to Tarapaya). There are basic shops and places to eat at Miraflores. While these certainly aren’t the most impressive hot pools that you’ll come across in South America, they will provide the visitor with an excellent view and a perfect way to wash the grit and grime of Potosi off.

EAT AND DRINK

My personal recommendation for anyone visiting Potosi is to eat the Mercado central (corner of Bolivar and Oruro). Here you’ll find the most affordable meals in the city, eat the most traditional and locally grown food, and will probably eat surrounded by locals. The range of food here is colossal - you can eat anything from the standard potato and rice combination to rich and hearty soups (chickens feet anyone?) If you’re looking for a guaranteed vegetarian option Manzana Magica (239 Oruro) has you covered - they cater for all vegetarian tastes, making a sweet veggie burger, lentil based dishes and the omnipresent papas frites. The prices here are well below the average, with a hearty plate of food setting you back $3-4 US. If you are looking for a meal with a view, try out the Sky Room (3rd floor, 701 Calle Bolivar). Here you can get a four course lunch whilst overlooking the pockmarked face of Cerro Ricco for as little as $5 US. Cash that you’re not fond of? 4.060 is your ticket. 4.060 is certainly marketed at the tourist, but will provide the visitor an excellent range of beers, pizza/mexican food and familiar comforts from home. Check it out if you’d like to meet other backpackers - the place is usually filled with them.

Bolivia is definitely not known for its coffee culture - but if you’re looking for a bite and a decent cup-of-joe then you’d best stop by Pasteleria Cherry, (Padillo 8). Pasteleria Cherry will provide the visitor the perfect spot for a warm caffeinated day-starter and pastry.

Bolivia

Our guide to Bolivia

When you’re in the Andes, it’s best to exercise some temperance when it comes to drinking. This rule holds especially true in Potosi - any alcohol that you consume at this elevation is likely to dehydrate you, intoxicate you quickly, and has been said to make some feel sick - so go easy! I followed none of these suggestions when I was there, and sampled some of the finest pubs the city had to offer. My personal pick for a bar in the city is Babel Restobar - where the thirst can get a cold beer and a meal - however the prices here are definitely at the tourist level. However, stop by the corner of Avenue Murillo and Villa Imperial to sample some well-poured beer. For those looking to be steeped amidst history with their beer, La Casona pub is the pick of the litter. This gorgeous little watering hole is set in the 1775 home of the previous role envoy to Potosi - stop by for a beer or cocktail and enjoy the former splendor. Whilst we’re on the topic, Café la Plata (Corner Calle Ayuacha and Calle Junin) is a sophisticated oasis amidst the rough and tumble vibe of Potosi - here you can get wine by the glass and well-presented sandwiches, cakes and salads.

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