Why stop in New Delhi?
When planning my first trip to India, flying from Sydney meant that New Delhi was the cheapest option at the time. Travelling primarily to complete a trek out of Darjeeling, flying into New Delhi gave opportunity to ‘pop down’ to Agra and see the Taj Mahal, especially in the wake of news reports that it’s deteriorating rapidly. So for the day’s either side of my flight I went for a wander.
Delhi is chaos
Like many large Asian cities, you can often gauge a lot about the level of chaos on your journey from the airport to the city centre. In Delhi, prepare yourself for a sensory overload. Immediately you will have to wade through the humid and heavy air as you exit the award winning (and comfortably air conditioned) Indira Gandhi International Airport. The taxi rank is similar to that of any other major asian city - lots of yelling and minimal personal space.
Tip: Pre order a car online, or ask your accomodation to send a car, most will do this with low to no cost. If it’s not your first time in Delhi, consider using the Metro, it takes a little over an hour (if it’s running at all).
The ride into New Delhi via car theoretically should take around half an hour. Insanely, ‘peak hour’ lasts for almost 4 hours in the morning and sometimes even longer at night. My first time to India I arrived into New Delhi at around 7 pm and was in a car by 8. It took more than an hour and a half to get into Karol Bagh. New Delhi’s population is approaching 22 million people and it is evident. Hundreds of motor-scooters weave through the traffic with millimetre precision, ambulances with blaring sirens and lights sit in bank of 5 rows of vehicles across 3 designated lanes - Any driver in Delhi will tell you that the lines on the road are more ‘suggestions’.
The streets edges are lined with black plastic tarp makeshift stalls and food carts with their small brightly coloured plastic chairs. Locals sit on the kerb and eat their rice meals with finger pincer motion. You turn a corner, the car nearly hits a cow, turn another and traffic is stopped for an elephant. In a strange and kind of desperate way, it feels like the holiest city on earth - a temple, shrine or offering on every horizon. All this and you haven’t even reached the hotel.
Sight seeing
There is an overwhelming amount of history and culture in both New and Old Delhi. There is a whole Mughal history of the reason for the two cities but we will just stick to must see attractions here. Keep in mind that tourism in Delhi can be an absolute trap, you could easily hire a driver for the day, lonely planet in hand, and see the sights without expensive guides at each attraction, but if you do feel the need to hire a guide (I had an amazing guide at the Taj Mahal one year and a terrible one the next), ask your accomodation or driver if you trust them or jump on tripadvisor and see if you can get a recommendation.
India Gate, Presidential Palace and Parliament House
These are usually a three-for-one attraction in New Delhi due to their proximity. India Gate - a huge arc de triumph style war memorial that sits in the centre of a hexagonal drive. The outreaching roads lead to Parliament house, the Presidential Palace and other landmarks such as Kahn market, the National Museum and Agrasen ki baoli (a very cool and creepy see right) ancient step well. The Palace and parliament are only worth a short look, India Gate is great for people watching of both the local and tourist varieties.
Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid
In the heart of old Delhi, Chandni Chowk (or chaandanee baajaar) translates to ‘The moonlight market’. This buzzing hive of bazaars and foot stalls has incredible relics of the Moghul Empire sprinkled in its guts. Roll up your sleeves and get ready to barter - this part of is easiest tackled rickshaw, but to get a real feel for this part of town you can’t go past exploring on foot. The smells alone will keep you stimulated but whilst you walking around, do stop and see Jama Masjid - The Great Mosque of Old Delhi for beautiful views, inside and out.
note: you will need to hire coverings for Jama Masjid as it is a functioning mosque
Gandhi Smriti and Raj Ghat
Two incredibly powerful sites in Delhi. If you know of the incredible life of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi more lovingly known as Mahatma Gandhi (mahatma literally translating to ‘great soul’) these two sites - Gandhi’s home and site of his ‘Martyrdom’ and the Huge Raj Ghat memorial garden and tomb - are a must see.
If you have little to no knowledge of Gandhi and his life (and death) and his immense impact on India and the world, you will learn it here. I think is an unmissable stop in Delhi.
Humayun’s Tomb- The o.g. Taj mahal
The Mughal Empire seriously knew how to commemorate the dead. Similar to the Taj Mahal (read more about that here), this stunning building is an enormous, world heritage listed tomb. It belongs to the Mughal Emperor Humayun and has a history that is as extraordinary as the Taj itself. The building and surrounding grounds are a breathtaking example of the distinct Mughal architectural style and the incredible scale of the entire monument lead to the inspiration for the Taj Mahal 80 years later.
One mention I will make is the Lotus Temple. Drive by, get a picture from afar, it is not worth going inside and half the time you can’t enter the building.
Have a missed your ‘must see’ in Delhi? Comment below!