Umbria was never on our list of ‘must do things in Italy.’ In fact, before we were madly searching a map, looking for somewhere to stop-over on our way to Campari, I’d never even heard of the place. Choosing it mainly due it’s proximity to the motorway that intersects Italy, we drove there completely unaware of the magical town that awaited us. Pity us, at this stage, for our ignorance. However, as we approached the city from the north, noting the strange town that seemed to be perched on top of a rock, we started to realise the error of our ways. Now, however, i’m one of the convinced. Read on for our guide on why you need to visit this stunning town in Umbria.

UNDERSTAND

Orvieto is located in the Umbria region of Italy, which is smack-bang in the centre, east of the Roma region. Located about an hours train ride from Rome, and about 2 hours from both Napoli and Florence, Orvieto is a well connected little gem in a country full of gems. Serviced by trains, bus and road, Orvieto is easily accessed by any tourist, and absolutely must be on your list of places to visit in Italy.

What sets Orvieto apart, in my opinion, is its uniqueness. Built on a rocky mound of volcanic soul by the Etruscans, this little city has had a few owners over the years. From Romans, to Popes, to city states, to being involved in more than a few sieges and wars, this little town has seen it all. However, due to this, the city is varied, gorgeous to look at, and seemingly well off the tourist trail.

WHY YOU SHOULD GO

Let me start with the obvious one. Orvieto is beautiful. Like, really, really beautiful. In a city full of ‘unmissable villages,’ and ‘gorgeous towns,’ Orvieto stands out to me. There is something, just, striking about the place. It’s difficult to put into words, but just picture the sight of a strange little fortress, perched atop an even stranger, conical shaped rock formation, standing out in the middle of a series of low rolling hills. As you approach, you see that the fortress actually contains a town, and that town is replete with terraced roofing, winding alleyways, and some very, very steep walls. Once you get inside the town, you find that it to be everything you imagine - a beautiful Duomo, people wandering the streets at dusk, amazing food on every corner, a massive gothic quarter that begs you to explore it. Underfoot, everything is cobblestone. You get a feeling that you are travelling back in time, so beautiful is each corner that you turn. That’s the magic of Orvieto. It’s special, and you need to visit it.

What’s more, there’s a whole bunch of things that you can do in Orvieto to keep yourself occupied. While I wrote a guide on a day-trip itinerary for Orvieto over here, let me just say, there is a veritable smorgasbord of things you can do in town. From wandering the winding city walls that ring the town, to climbing torre del muno in the centre. You can explore the tunnels that criss-cross underneath the town with a guide for only 10 euro, and can visit the beautiful Duomo, one of the best in Italy, for only 4 euro. What’s more, you can visit countless other churches, art galleries, shopping districts and cafes in town. There is plenty here to keep you going.

One of the best things, however, about Orvieto, is just how compact it is. Due to it being built on a small volcanic hill, the city extremities are pretty tiny, so you can walk the whole town in less than an hour or so. The city is a pedestrians dream, with winding alleyways, very few steep hills, and a few areas that cars are banned from entering. Each street will bring you a new view, a more beautiful panorama, a new trattoria to try out. The city rewards those who wander, and if you visit, you’ll be hard pressed not to spend all of your time wandering aimlessly - I know I nearly did.

While Orvieto is hardly ‘undiscovered’ by tourists, it receives far fewer visitors than it’s neighbour, Rome, or many of the villages in Tuscany. Due to this, if you visit in the low season, it’s somewhat likely that you’ll have many of the attractions and activities to yourself, and you’ll be hard pressed to spot more than one (annoying) walking tour in a single day. Furthermore, the prices for food, alcohol and coffee are much cheaper in Orvieto than elsewhere. We found the price for a glass of wine in places like Cantina Foresi to be much cheaper than you’d find up north, and are still thanking our luck for this.

WHEN TO VISIT

Given Orvieto’s low altitude, relatively ‘middling’ position in Italy, and lack of proximity to the coast, the place gets hot in summer. Really hot. expect average daytime temperatures in June/July to hover well above 30ºC. Moreover, as you should well know, these months also bring the tourists - who will probably be here in force. Skip all of this nonsense, and visit in the off-season. We were recently there in January, and were treated to fairly balmy days (daytime temp around 13ºC) and pretty mild nights (well above freezing). While it can be cold in winter, you could always go for the shoulder season of Autumn (October, November) - the days will still be warm (ish), but you’ll get much longer daylight, far fewer queues, and less wind. However, my money is still on winter - go against the grain, your wallet will thank you for it.

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