Equipped for Arequipa
Ever heard of an Oasis before? You know, the shimmering mirage of water amidst the scorched desert? Better challenge your notions of what an oasis can be then, because Arequipa is your refuge in the dry dusty deserts of souther Peru. Beautiful architecture meets cosmopolitan vibes here, all under the shadow of the beautiful Misti Volcano, forever looming above this refuge.
AREQUIPA
WHERE: Southern Peru
WHY GO: History, hiking, local food.
TIME: 3 nights.
Understand
Nicknamed, ‘The White city,’ Arequipa stands sentinel in the Southern Peruvian Tourist corridor. Embodying Incan, Mestizo and Spanish cultures, Arequipa is a fascinating city that demands the visitor’s attention. Sitting at 2400 m above sea level, Arequipa may take your breath both literally and figuratively, but is well worth a visit. From wide colonial promenades to twisting cobblestone streets, glorious plazas to tiny wine bars, colonial architecture to Incan artefacts - the city offers a perfect entry point into Peru. Walking through the streets of Arequipa in 2014 I was struck by how the place seemed to be a living embodiment of history - everywhere I looked there was another beautiful church, museum or monument. My week in Arequipa went by in a flash of good food, amazing architecture and some unforgettable hikes. Ever since, I’ve been planning my return.
Get in
If coming by air, you’ll be landing at Rodriguez Ballon airport, which is about 15 minutes out of town. LATAM, Avianca and Peruvian airlines all service daily routes from Lima and Cusco. Expect to pay $50-100 USD for a one-way flight. Once in the airport jump in a cab to reach Arequipa - don’t pay anything more than $5 USD.
If, like me, you enjoy torturously long bus rides, then you’re in luck! There are a myriad of routes to choose from to get into Arequipa by road. As with any bus route in South America, the bus routes into Arequipa are serviced by a range of companies offering a range of comfort levels and prices. My pick of companies to go with are either PeruHop or Cruz del Sur. Both should still be servicing the following routes;
Lima: 18 hours, $30-40 USD.
Cuzco: 8 hours, $20 USD
Ica: 12 hours, $15 USD
Puno: 6-7 hours, $10 USD
Heading to Lima? Read my guide on the city here.
See and do
The Colca Canyon: Deserving of it’s own post, the Colca Canyon is a glorious gorge located a few hours outside of town. Do it either as a day trip for $20 USD, or an overnight hike for $150 USD. Expect stunning viewpoints, rugged landscapes and condors.
Juanita Mummy: Located in the Museo Santuarios Andinos is the tiny mummified remains of Juanita, whom was sacrificed high up on Volcano Misti. Morbid curiosity aside, visiting the mummy of Juanita provided me with a fascinating glimpse into Inca culture, and gave me a quick history lesson into the local area too. Expect to pay around $10 USD for a tour.
San Camilo Market: The oldest market in town, and located a convenient 2 minutes walk from the centrally located, Plaza De Armas. come here to buy hand woven products, trinkets, a decent bite to eat, or all the fruit you could ever possibly need. Well worth checking out. I have very fond memories of buying a certain ten-gallon hat in this very market. My reasons? Unknown.
Convento de Santa Catalina: Easily the most visited building in town, Saint Catalina’s Convent has often been described as being ‘a city within a city.’ Visit it and you’ll find out why. Expect a beautiful array of colours, twisting little lanes and some grandiose catholic relics. You’ll feel like you’ve travelled back a century or two.
Climb El Misti: Standing at 5822 meters above sea level, the Volcano known as El Misti is a constant presence in arequipa. However, why just stare at it? Get up there and climb it. Doing so will require an overnight hike to the top - you’ll also need to book with a local guide. I’d recommend going with Peru Adventures; expect to pay about $50 USD for this once in a lifetime opportunity.
Capua Waterfall: Do a quick half day walk to the Capua Waterfall. Located just north of town, this trek will take about 8 hours and will have you hike through Andean desert, rocky valleys and a canyon formed via volcanic lava. Again, mY pick is to go with Peru Adventures, where you can pay about $55 USD for the trip.
Eat and drink
Before I get thoroughly stuck into a listicle here, when in Arequipa, eat local. Arequipan cuisine boasts bold flavours, a lot of spice and a huge presence of capsicum - it’s in almost everything here. Local restaurants are called Picanterias. They are highly popular, very cheap, and will feed you the goddamn best feed you’ll eat in town. Some of these Picanterias are massive (up to 600 tables) - however, get yourself to the suburb of Arancota, find a Picanteria and order the Chicharron (fried pork with corn). My pick for Picanteria’s are; La Capitana and La Palomina - expect to pay around $4 USD for a feed. To eat as the locals do go for alpaca steaks, Rocoto Relleno (stuffed pepper with a potato pie), Chupe de Camarones, a thick soup very flavoured and presented with many shrimps in it. Read on for the list of what is good gustatory wise in Arequipa.
Mercado San Camilo: Thoroughly local fare. cheap prices and a huge range of options abound inside the San Camilo Market. Have a wander and pull up a chair wherever your fancy is taken.
Picanteria La Capitana: As mentioned above, a local vibe abounds here, recommend that you check it out for lunch - expect to pay around $4 USD for a set menu.
Zig Zag Restaurant: Looking for a diverse menu with a high class flair? Zig-Zag has you covered. Boasting, French, Italian and Andean influences, this spot, while expensive is definitely worth checking out for a fusion style cooking. Expect to pay at least $30 USD for a meal here.
Los Girasoles: Centrally located vegetarian restaraunt. Comes highly recommended.
Ary Quepay: Located on Calle Jerusalén 502. Nice restaurant that serves local food.
Mandarian: Located at Mercaderes 310. One of the better Chifa (Peruvian-Chinese) places in town. Will pay about $5 USD for a meal.
Cafe Bar Senor Misti: Can be found at 118 Calle General Moran. Easily serves up some of the best coffee in town. The owner is a bona-fide legend - definitely stop by.
Espressate: Espressate is perfect for a good cup of coffee, homemade desserts and Spanish tapas. This coffee house offers free wi-fi, and has a books exchange corner.
Lucciano: Calle Mercederes (1/2 a block east of the Plaza de Armas). Cortado (coffee with a bit of milk) and a pastry costs S./7 at this local bakery.
Chelawasi Public House: Excellent little bar in the heart of town offering up some of the best beers in Peru.
Qochamama: good hangout for someone looking to have a pizza or two and a beer or three.
Looking for a guide to Peruvian cuisine? Read my guide to Guinea Pig here.
SLEEP
Wild Rover: Can personally recommend. Every backpacker worth their salt has at least one story from a Wild Rover. I spent 4 nights in this particular hostel - and can attest to it having a fantastic vibe, a near constant party, and some of the best staff i came across in 6 months of travel. The wild Rover is located right in the heart of Arequipa, and provides the perfect base for exploring the city and surrounding area.
Sol de Oro Hostel: Located a four minute walk from the main plaza, Sol De Oro provides a relaxed, family-friendly vibe and offers private rooms (including twin share) or six-bed dormitories at $10 USD soles per night. Also includes hot-cooked breakfast, 24 hour reception security, hot showers and access to kitchen, lockers, billiards and games room.
Koala Hostel: Located in an old colonial building with a lovely courtyard. Can certainly attest to how pretty this place is, the vibe seemed real relaxed when I cruised through. bed from about $7 USD per night.
Casablanca Hotel: Clean and comfortable hotel located in downtown Arequipa. Clean showers with moderately hot water. A twin room goes for approximately $45 USD a night.
Missed anything worth doing, eating or sleeping in in Arequipa? Drop a line in the comments below!
Short-form story detailing an experience in Sacred Valley, Peru.