Following my recent weekend following the steps of the late and extremely great Anthony Bourdain around Glasgow, Scotland, I figured that I’d make a habit of it, and continued the tradition over the course of a few days in Porto. Thoroughly well fed, extremely satisfied, and just a little tipsy from port consumption, I think it’s time I shared my experience with you.

THE BAR

CERVEJARIA GAZELA

Travessa Cimo de Vila, 4 Batalha, Porto

During my Bourdain pilgrimage in Porto, I started with the best – Cervejaria Gazela. Located close by to the ceaselessly instagrammed Sao Bento train station Cervejaria Gazela is everything I could have wanted out of a neighbourhood bar. A barman greeted me with a handshake as I entered, I squeezed onto a stool between two locals and had a cold beer poured for me a beer without me even needing to ask. People came and went as I sat. An elderly couple shared a bottle of wine, a street-sweeper ate a hotdog and a few tourists drifted in and out. The place is decidedly unpretentious, and it seems like it will stay that way. Cheap beers and the best pub grill I’m yet to come upon – think perfectly cooked sausages on soft buns, french fries, steak sandwiches and oh so tasty egg rolls. If you visit Porto without stopping by, you’re either a philistine or deaf to common sense.

Looking for something to do in Porto? Read our guide on the top 10 things to do in town here.

THE DINNER

Café O Afonso

4050-610, Rua Da Torinha 219, Porto

On the same night as I visited Cervejaria Gazela, I made my way across town to Café O Afonso. Very much in a similar vein to Cervejaria Gazela in its lack of pretension, commitment to comfort food in and old school Porto setting, this restaurant seems to embody Porto’s efforts to avoid gentrification. Think pork rolls, carafes of Vinho Verde or Branco, and attentive staff that will pour you a port after dinner. I left here having barely spent any money but feeling fuller than I had any right to. Waltz on in for a late night feed, take in the Bourdain memorial and strap yourself in for a culinary experience that will delight, comfort and require a loosening of your belt.

Looking for inpsiration on coffee food and/or wine in Porto? Read our short guide here.

THE PORT

REAL COMPANHIA VELHA

4431-952 R. Azevado Maghales 314, Vila Novia de Gaia, Portugal

While you’d be hard pressed to buy a bad glass of fortified wine in Porto, you’d be even harder pressed to find a better place to drink it that Real Companhia Velha. Tucked away on the western side of the river that dissects the city, Real Companhia Velha felt almost hidden compared to the touristic bars that line the waterfront– however, upon entering, I found that this place was a gargantuan monument to port and fortified wine. While visitors are able to do a tour and visit the port caves that Bourdain drank in, I opted to go straight to the bar and order up some of the finest yield the Duoro valley had to offer. Any regrets? Absolutely not. The staff are attentive here – and don’t be dismayed by the ‘drug cartel’ vibe when entering, this veritable stronghold of port is welcoming and accessible. Take the walk across the waterfront and discover it for yourself.

Read our guide to the best wine bars in Portugal here.

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