Coimbra. Known as the University city of Portugal, this absolutely stunning town in the centro region of Portugal stood out to me in a way that many of the smaller towns in Portugal didn’t. Beautiful, welcoming, and not overly religious (for Portugal, that is), Coimbra left an indelible mark on me. This is my guide for why you should go there and what you should do once there.

WHY SHOULD you GO

Coimbra is located in central Portugal. Located about 1 hour by car from Porto, and 2 hours from Lisbon, Coimbra is perfectly situated for a backpacker winding their way through Portugal. Despite being Portugal’s fourth most populous city, Coimbra attracts markedly fewer visitors than many of Portugal’s other destinations. However, Coimbra is a multi-faceted town, with an energetic undercurrent mobilised by the large student population. Coimbra contains multitudes, with every street the very incarnation of heritage, history and culture.

Beauty is a word that’s thrown around a little too readily. Yet, Coimbra embodies beauty. One of my favourite mornings in Portugal was spent watching the sun rise over Coimbra. The sight of golden light illuminating the Church atop the hill, and gradually illuminating the town, the varicoloured hues of the houses lining the sloping streets of the city becoming more and more distinct was supremely sublime. It was, in a word, beautiful. Wandering the streets is no different; the alleyways are distinctly medieval; they wander and weave gradually around the steep hill the central part of the city is built on. Some alleyways lead to yet another stunning church, others will lead to the best wine shop you’re likely to find in Portugal (more on that here). Coimbra will reward the pedestrian willing to walk a km or two. A solid hour of walking can take you from the river right up to the lookout and back again.

Coimbra is also cheap. Distinctly off the tourist trail by Portuguese standards, the price of living is somewhat cheaper here. Most nights I was able to have a wine or two, an excellent dinner (more on that here), without spending more than 20 or 30 euros, which is pretty exceptional for Europe. For any backpacker looking to scrimp and save, Coimbra needs to be thrown onto the list.

what should you do in coimbra?

Coimbra contains a wealth of things to do and see. Like in any city, your first activity upon arrival has to be walking through the city. In Coimbra, this is especially true - the alleyways and cobblestone streets of the old quarter are particularly beautiful.

After going for a walk, the next stop should be to check out some of the attractions in town; The famous University of Coimbra (one of the oldest in the world) is open to visitors daily until 7 pm, and a tour will include a visit to the excellent library and student gaol (they used to have those?). The tour is actually pretty awesome - the inside of the university is quite beautiful in a stately sort of way- you should also be aware that students at the Uni all have to wear black cloaks, which gives the place a strong ‘Hogwarts,’ vibe. The views from the top of the hill surrounding the old university complex are also breathtaking, and completely free. For more information on visiting, go here.

The Igreja de Santa Cruz (Monastery of Santa Cruz) is also a fairly significant little spot. The first two kings of Portugal are buried within the church, and the building itself dates back at the 12th century AD - and is worth checking out. You can find it at Praça 8 de Maio, 3001-300 Coimbra, Portugal.

You should also try and listen to some ‘Fado’ whilst in town. Fado is Portuguese folk music, and has two varieties; that of Lisbon, and that of Coimbra, which is generally thought to be less depressing than the Lisbon variety. Coimbra contains a multitude of Fado bars stretched throughout the city, and you should consider checking out the following;

• Fado A Centro (R. Quebra Costas 7, 3000-340, Coimbra)

• Quebra o Galho (Rua do, R. Quebra Costas 12, 3000-422 Coimbra, Portugal)

• Fado Hilário (R. Joaquim António de Aguiar 110, 3000-230 Coimbra, Portugal)

Where should you eat and drink?

I wrote a short post on the topic over here, but Coimbra contains some of the best eating in Portugal. In fact, I’d go as far as to say that I didn’t eat anywhere near as well in Porto or Lisbon than I did in Coimbra. If you are spending the night, I’d strongly recommend you check out the following spots;

Wanna read about Portugals best wine, Vinho Verde? Head over here!

• Quim Dos Ossos (R. António Vasconcelos 3, 3000-379 Coimbra) - my personal pick on where to eat in Coimbra. Located about 15 minutes walk from the main drag, this neighbourhood kitchen is exactly what I needed. Down home cooking, served up by two of the most mellow restauranteurs I’ve ever met, served with a carafe of house red (also very good). I cannot recommend this spot enough. They don’t have a website, don’t do reservations, but serve the best food in the city. Go there.

• Toca De Gato (R. dos Gatos 8, 3000-200, Coimbra) - an excellent down home cooking joint located about 2 minutes walk from the main drag in the city centre. We ate the octopus stew and a chicken rice combination plate. Both were exceptional, and cost less than 10 euros.

• Kabra Velha (nº, Rua de Fernandes Thomas 16, 3000-167 Coimbra) - tucked away in a little alleyway about 5 minuets from the centre of town is Kabra Velha, easily the best wine bar that I found in Portugal. Bruno, the owner is passionate, amazing with wine, and very happy to discuss what playlist he should put on. Check it out.

• Ze Mannel Dos Ossos (Beco do Forno 12, 3000-382, Coimbra) this is the hotspot. A trendy, down-home cooking spot. Open for lunch and dinner, this joint has six tables, and consistently has a line out the door. More expensive than Toca De Gato by a long shot, but serves up some excellent pork dishes. I would note here; this place is super, super popular - if you don’t get in, don’t be surprised.

WHEN SHOULD YOU GO?

Coimbra seems to be a fairly all year destination. Positively baking in summer, and fairly balmy in winter, I feel safe in recommending that you visit at any time of the year. Given that it’s in Portugal, Coimbra cops a fair bit of rain. Most months of the year see between 5-10 days of rain on average, however, the months between October to April are generally more calamitous weather wise, with a much higher average rainfall, and temperatures hovering between 6° and 14°. That being said, winter in Coimbra is fairly mild - the days that I spent there during December 2019 were fairly balmy, and the cold only really started to seep in at night. I’d also note that Coimbra was relatively bereft of tourists during Winter, which is an added bonus for any visitors.

WHERE TO STAY

• Coimbra Portagem Hostel: Mellow hostel in the centre of town. Rooms will set you back 20 euros a night. (R. da Couraça Estrela 5 11 L, 3000-433 Coimbra, Portugal). Book here.

• Serenata Hostel: Relaxed hostel in a refined 20th-century building offering cathedral views, free breakfast & a bar. Comes with extremely good reviews. Room will set you back 30 euros a night. (Largo Sé Velha 21/23, 3000-383 Coimbra, Portugal). Book here.

Any questions about Coimbra? Drop me a line in the comments below!