Bourdain is an absolute hero of mine. No two ways about it. Up there with Hemingway and McCartney. Bourdain spent a bit of time in Glasgow over the years, shooting an Episode of Part’s Unknown here, and frequently writing about his adoration for the city. Given my penchance for mimicry and admiration for the great man, I dedicated my few days that I spent in Glasgow retracing his passage through the city, one pub at a time.

Glasgow

**WHERE**: Southern Scotland
**WHY**: Awesome history, even better food
**TIME**: 3 nights minimum

THE LUNCH

University cafe - 87 Byres road

When Bourdain visited Glasgow for ‘Part’s Unknown,’ one of his last stops was at the University Cafe, which celebrated its 100th year of operations in 2016. When I visited just last week (November, 2019), I arrived with a slightly sore head from the night before, a bad case of museum-foot, and a hunger that knew no bounds. Luckily, the University Cafe obliged me, serving up the best mac and Cheese that I’ve ever eaten, whilst Carlie had the haggis, neeps and tatties. We both left feeling a little beyond sated. Like any good hangover institution, the place seemed to be filled with regulars, a few students, and a quiet staff that knew what questions to ask and how to run a tight ship.

THE PUB

The Old College Bar - 219 High street, Glasgow

Whether The Old College Bar is the ‘oldest pub in Glasgow’ or not is besides the point. The place is the epitome of a Glaswegian pub. Dark panelling, cold beer (or room temp, if ale is your thing), and a barman who knows how to keep a secret. A quiet Tennents or Guinness in here will set you straight - what’s more, tuck yourself into the very, very comfortable booths and read for an afternoon - it’s sure to be raining outside, and I can tell you from experience this is soul-growing stuff.

Bourdain drank here in an episode of Part’s Unknown. I’m sure he enjoyed the lack of television screens, hordes of tourists, or ‘hipster' students.’ Take note though, this bar only accepts cash. I’d recommend pairing it with an afternoon of re-reading ‘The Old Man and the Sea.’

THE dinner

Mother India - 28 Westminster Terrace

Mother India, located just off the main thoroughfare on Argyle street in the west end of Glasgow boasts the location of both where Bourdain ate a meal (lamb curry simmered in spicy tomato gravy, served with naan) and where i recently consumed the best Indian food I have ever eaten in my entire life. What other superlatives can I use besides ‘phenomenal?’ - This place left me both exceedingly stuffed, but satisfied in a way that’s beyond words, all for a price that felt reasonable, given the fare I’d indulged in. I can certainly speak for getting the naan, slow cooked chicken, the ginger crab dosa, and the lamb and ladyfingers. Trust me, eating here is akin to seeing the Coliseum or reading ‘The Lord of the Rings,’ - life isn’t complete without it. Book a table, now.

Bourdain loved Glasgow, calling it Europe’s ‘No bullshit zone.’ He described falling in love with the city ‘within minutes’ of first stepping off the train there. Writing this now, tucked away in our campervan on a miserable rainy evening, I wish very much that I was still wandering Glasgow’s cobbled streets, brushing shoulders with regulars at a bar, or searching for the elusive deep-fried mars bar, I can see why he loved it. Given we had never planned on even coming to Glasgow, I have to thank whatever deity is looking out for me that we did. Glasgow, known for it’s hard drinking, shit weather and occasionally blunt residents actually felt like the warmest hug - I loved it here, and have to thank Bourdain for the perfect guide to this spot, and for teaching me a lot of what I now love about travel - rest in peace.

Tracing Bourdain's Steps in Glasgow