Cartagena. The jewel of North Coast Colombia. Beautiful, exciting, and highly intoxicating, the city left me nearly speechless in my last visit. read on for the 7 things I love most about this gorgeous city, and the one thing that I hate.

1) The OLD TOWN

What can I say about the Old Town of Cartagena that hasn’t already been said? A 16 km area containing gorgeous colonial buildings and structures, all ringed by fortifications that were built to keep out pirates in the 16th century. Looks as horrible as it sounds. Walking amidst the trendy bars, cafes and shopfronts, dwarfed by looming sea walls and houses that have stood sentinel for centuries I’m sure you’ll be as filled with ennui as I was at the time. The easiest way to experience the old town is the old fashioned way - by walking the cobble-stone streets, passing through a world heritage sight, ignoring the romance all the way.

2) Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

While I’m on the topic of old colonial structures, Castillo San Felipe De Barajas, the ancient castle that dominates the skyline to the west of the Old Town is decidedly forgettable. Just imagine a gargantuan sandstone castle that you can enter for under $10 US. Imagine being able to touch ancient canons as they face the Caribbean awaiting pirate invasion. Imagine a series of subterranean tunnels that you can explore at your leisure and the glorious feeling of the sun on your skin as you re-emerge. sounds horrible doesn’t it?

3) The Nightlife

Far out. Having at the beer at the end of a long day of floating in the Caribbean. Seems horrible? Get down to the Getsemani neighborhood for a beer or three at Plaza Trinidad by sunset, or fight for a spot at the Cafe Del Mar for the most picturesque rum cocktail you’ll ever drink. Feeling energetic? Head to Cafe Havana (Cra. 10, Cartagena, Getsemani, Colombia) for a lesson in rhythm from local salsa aficionados, Bazurto (9 #3042, Cartagena) for live champeta or Quiebra-Canto (Calle 24, Media Luna 8B #25-100) to watch dancers that border upon the awe inspiring. I’m sure you’ll hate the above as much as I did.

4) The islands

Tropical islands dotting the Carribbean, coral atolls clogging the aquamarine blue water, all within an hours boat ride from the city? Yeah, it’s horrible alright. Just the name alone are enough to ward away any potential visitors - Playa Blanca, Isla Rosario, San Bernardo, Isla Grande. If you’re feeling up for a boat ride, get yourself down to the central port and book a one-way fare to one of seven gorgeous islands nestled in the waters just off Cartagena. Don’t pay more than $15 US for a ticket. When you arrive set yourself up on the beach, order yourself an ice-cold Aguila and stretch out. When you get too hot, take a dip in the endlessly stunning blue water mere metres from your feet. Feeling hungry whilst amidst this natural splendour? Each island has scores of beachside restaurants and cafes that can fry you up a fish that will bring joy to even the most hardened heart. Despite obviously hating it, my pick of the lot is Playa Blanca - a 40 minute boat ride from the city that epitomises the word ‘paradise.’

5) The Beach

Staying in the Old Town? Did you know it’s a whole ten minute bus ride from where you are to the nearest beach that will genuinely bring a tear to your eye. Bocagrande, whilst always busy provides the visitor with plenty of room to move and swim. For a more relaxed atmosphere try out La Boquilla, a beachfront located to the east of the Old Town - look around when you’re here. See any tourists? You’re welcome.

Colombia

Our guide to Colombia

6) The Food

Whoever associated Carribbean culture with a decent meal? Not me, that’s for sure. My biggest gripe with Cartagena has to be the endless array of excellent food on offer - some of which carrying a price tag that won’t hurt the backpacker at the end of the road north. Tried Ceviche? Head to Plaza Trinidad for the best bet for Ceviche in town. Colombian Pizza? Sounds a little off but tastes great, providing a distinctly Colombia twang on the Italian staple. Grab a seat at Basilica Pizzería Café to engorge on this sweet-savoury dish. For a pricier dinner, shlep down to La Mulata for a modern take on traditional Colombian fare. Sick of filtered coffee? Get out of bed early and pull up to the table at Abacus Books and Cafe for a coffee amidst literature. Or, if filtered coffee if more your game, order a brew at Epoca - you won’t be disappointed.

7) THE PLAZAS

By the time I’d arrived in Cartagena, I’d seen my fair share of plazas. I’d spent an afternoon playing guitar by Plaza Murillo in La Paz, downed one too many beers in Plaza Intendente Alvear in Buenos Aires and had shared a breakfast surrounded by adorable dogs in Plaza Sotomayor in Valparaiso. I considered myself somehting of an expert on the subject of Latin american squares by this point. But when I walked amidst the plazas of Old Town, Cartagena I knew that I’d barely even started my study into the Latin American plaza. Here, I passed by locals reading and taking the sun in Plaza San Pedro Claver, watched old men playing chess in Plaza Bolivar and passed by bombastic sculptures in Plaza Santa Domingo. My personal favourite is just outside of the walled city - Plaza de La Trinidad, sun drenched coral stone pathways snake amidst the greenery in a thoroughly stunning way. Damn, I hate that Cartagena has much me such a snob about plazas.

8) Horse-Drawn carts

Ok, this point is serious. I genuinely hated the horse drawn carts ferrying rich tourists about the Old Town. Every time an over-privileged passenger being carted about on the back of a horse in the Carribbean heat I felt a stab of fear for the horses welfare amidst a shudder of revulsion for the pretense of the tourists. So yeah, I hate the horse drawn carriages. Hate them.

So, there it is. The definitive list of 8 things that I hate about Cartagena. Realistically, the subtitle of this post should have been ‘7 things I love about Cartagena and 1 thing that I hate,” however, that wouldn’t have sounded anywhere close to being snappy. Cartagena is a truly magical place, and there is a definite reason that it is the most visited city on Colombia for tourists. No trip to Colombia or Latin America would be complete without a stay in this breathtaking city, and any would-be-backpacker should ensure that plan a lengthy stay here.