Split is easily the premier destination on the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. Less touristy than Dubrovnik, but more exciting than Zadar, Split stands out for being cosmopolitan, thoroughly beautiful, and still authentic enough to give it some gravitas. Read on for my guide on how to have a perfect day there.

split croatia — A day guide for Split

**WHERE**: Split, Dalmatian Coast
**WHY**: Old-town, cheap, very beautiful
**TIME**: 2 days

MORNING

Diocletian’s Palace

Start your morning in Split off correctly by visiting Diocletian’s Palace. the Palace itself takes up about half of the old town of Split, though you might not know it to begin with, as there are houses and shops filling up the archaic hallways and archways nowadays. Built in the 4th century AD as the retirement palace for the Emperor Diocletian, the complex is a beautiful display of Roman architecture, with Corinthian columns, a huge tower, and a large sunken courtyard that previously led directly to the sea (before it receded somewhat). While much of the onetime palace is now covered by buildings from later periods, you can freely explore much of Diocletian’s Palace by simply walking around the complex located at Dioklecijanova ul. 1, Split. While you’re there, why not ascend Saint Dominus Bell Tower, planted directly in the centre of the surviving palace complex. You can climb the tower for $3 USD, which will give you an excellent view of the surrounding old town.

MARKET HOPPING and froggyland

The old city market is a must do in Split

After you’ve taken in the sights, I’ll suggest that you do some quick market hopping. Split has two markets of note; the Old City Market, located directly outside the southern gate of city walls behind the Diocletian Palace, and the Fisherman’s market, on the other side of town. Both are open year round, and contain a huge range of stalls serving up the freshest produce around. While I didn’t eat at the fisherman’s market, word is that you can find really cheap oysters here. I did get some coffee and croissants at the farmers market, and can attest to how good both are. Browsing the vegetables and fruit on display here certainly did get my stomach rumbling - my only wish being that i had a decent kitchen in town to cook them up with. However, no visit to town would be complete without visiting either market, you’ll rub shoulders with locals doing their weekly shop, and smell some very, very fresh food.

Old City Market: Ul. Stari pazar, 21000, Split, Croatia

Fisherman’s Market: Obrov ul. 5, 21000, Split, Croatia

After getting your fill of checking out the markets, I’d suggest that it’s time to take care of a weird novelty activity in Split; Froggyland. Located a 2 minute walk away from the centre of the old town, Froggyland is a strange, strange activity that will only cost you $5 USD, and will leave you scratching your head quizzically, wondering, ‘what on earth did I just see?’ To put it simply, Froggyland is the largest display (on earth) of taxidermied frogs. Sounds boring, right? However, these frogs are taxidermied into all sorts of weird and wonderful positions; such as playing the violin, engaged in sporting activities, or eating a meal. It’s truly a wondrous experience to come from the imposing beauty of the Diocletian Palace to the bizarre displays of frogs in eternally unnatural positions, but one that is thoroughly, thoroughly worth it.

Froggyland: Ul. kralja Tomislava 5, 21000, Split, Croatia

AFTERNOON

LUNCH

If feeling peckish at this stage, might I suggest getting lunch at either Vila Spiza or Konobo Lucac? Both are excellent, moderately priced restaurants locate din the heart of the old town. I ate at both and can recommend the food, service and location. I wrote about them both a little more in posts here and here, but take it from me; you won’t find better down-home cooking for the price in town.

Vila Spiza: Ul. Petra Kružića 3, 21000, Split, Croatia

Konoba Lucac: Ul. Sv. Petra starog 2, 21000, Split, Croatia

After lunch, it’s time to head out of town to Marjan Hill. The imposing hill to the north of town is an absolute must-do for the views alone, but the walk up, though steep in parts, is fairly enjoyable, and you’ll be surrounded by locals jogging or walking their dogs. You can reach the stairs to Marjan Hill by walking towards the Buffet Fife restaurant (more on this later). the stairs are just behind the restaurant, and the way is clearly marked from there. Make sure you stop at the Café Vidilic on the way up, the terraced area out the front boasts the best views you’re likely to get of the old town. However, don’t rest on your laurels just yet - keep walking up through the Marjan Hill Park - there are heaps of trails to explore, and the park area has a zoo, a museum of Archaelogy, and a Sculpture gallery. My vote though? Keep following the path all the way up until you reach Telegrin peak. While it only sits at 178 metres above sea-level, the view of the Adriatic from the top is truly commanding.

Matejuška

Once you descend Marjan Hill, the temperature should be starting to drop and the sun descending. There has never been a more perfect time to take it easy, read a book, and enjoy a cool beer by the sea-side. Fortunately for you, Split has just the spot for this. Located to the north of the Riva waterfront walkway, and a short 200m walk from the foot of the Marjan Hill stairs sits Matejuška, the old fisherman’s port. Just across the road there’s a bottle shop and supermarket, so you’ll be able to grab a cold beer for less than $1 USD, take it over to the long stretch of seating that lines the waterfront and open up a book. We did so for several hours, reading until the sun was well on its way to setting, surrounded by locals doing much the same thing. Sitting at Matejuška with a beer is an absolute institution for Split locals, so, why not join them?

Matejuška: Trumbićeva obala 3, 21000, Split, Croatia

EVENING

Dinner

If your earlier feed didn’t go all the way to filling you up, you’ll be spoiled for choice for dinner and drinks in Split. If looking to splash out, head to Articok, a modern fine dining establishment located just by the northern city walls. Or, if looking to save some money and indulge in the local specialty, head back to Buffet Fife at the foot of the Marjan stairs, where you’ll be served some amazing local fare for staggeringly low prices. If looking for somewhere to drink after dinner, MoNIKa’s Wine Bar is located close by to both, or you could take a quick walk through town to the Zinfandel Wine Bar, both of which have impressive wine lists showcasing the best establishment Croatian wine you’re going to find. If looking for something cheap and nasty, you could check out Charlie’s Bar, a backpacker haunt tucked away by the Diocletian’s Palace. Raucous, dingy, and thoroughly suited for a night of depravity, it was no wonder to me that Charlie’s Bar was set up by Australians - head there if you’re looking to kick thinks up a notch. For me though, my heart rests with Buffet Fife; you can sip cold beer there all evening if you choose. Nobody will judge, and some locals are very likely to cajole you into singing a few Croatian sea-shanties, why not? Looking for a guide to Croatian Wine? Click here!

Buffet Fife: Trumbićeva obala 11, 21000, Split, Croatia

Articok: Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 19, 21000, Split, Croatia

MoNIKa’s Wine Bar: Ul. ban Mladenova 1, 21000, Split, Croatia

Zinfandel Food and Wine Bar: Marulićeva ul. 2, 21000, Split, Croatia

Charlie’s Bar: Ul. Petra Kružića 5, 21000, Split, Croatia

If you’ve enjoyed this one-day guide to Split, feel free to let us know in the comments below or subscribe to our mailing list. Any questions? Hit us up in the comments.

Featured