Split is a safe-haven for foodies. Drawing inspiration from Roman, Venetian and Illyrian cuisine, this melting pot of culture has some of the best dining options anywhere in Croatia, and does them for a fraction of the price of Dubrovnik. Read on for my guide on where to eat in Split.

CHEAP

Rizzo sandwich bar

Tucked away in amongst a few bars just outside the old city walls, Rizzo is something of a hidden gem in Split. You could easily be forgiven for walking right past this hole in the wall sandwich joint as you peruse the various cafés, shops and bars that line the street, but you’ll never forgive yourself for not going. Rizzo Sandwich Bar serve up DIY rolls for very cheap, slinging a range of basic sandwiches and wraps with turkey, tuna, prosciutto and your selection of salad for less than $3 USD per wrap. Whether it’s a bite at lunch or a late night treat on the way home from the bar, Rizzo will have you covered - this place is open from 8am-11pm every single day of the week, low or high season. A two man operation, the boys behind the bar will serve you wraps so good you’ll be crawling back for more the next day, I know I certainly did.

Rizzo Sandwich Bar: Tončićeva ul. 4, 21000, Split, Croatia

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Buffet fife

Buffet Fife is everything you’d expect of a bistro set-up by the harbour of a one-time maritime super-power. Cheap, down-home cooking, done very, very well. A one-time hidden favourite of locals, Buffet Fife, after several glowing blog posts, has become something of an institution, and you’ll be hard pressed to get a table during high-season. However, for me, no problem, as I visited in winter. We opted for the squid-ink risotto, the gnocchi, and the beef cheek goulash - all were utterly sensational, taste-bud stimulating stuff. Can’t recommend the food at this place enough. To increase the hype somewhat, the prices at Buffet Fife are still low, despite their newfound popularity. We had a three course meal and two beers for $30 USD - won’t do any better than that on the Dalmatian coast. They’re open from 7am-11pm each day, but I’d suggest getting there after lunch when they start really cooking - go for whatever the waiter recommends, he knows what’s good.

Buffet Fife: Trumbićeva obala 11, 21000, Split, Croatia

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MODERATE

Villa Spiza

Located in the heart of the old town, Villa Spiza was everything I wanted from a dining experience in Split. Dalmation and Istrian food, done very well, for a moderate price. I wrote another piece about Villa Spiza over here, but let me just say; best meal in Croatia, perhaps Europe, right here. While the menu changes by the day, I’d suggest trying to get something with truffles in it, as they did my linguine perfect, and if they have a seafood stew on, get that - you will not be disappointed. The guys that work here do an excellent job at cooking home style Croatian fare, and do it for a price that is staggeringly low - we paid less than $40 USD for two mains and a few drinks. Villa Spiza has two locations in the same alleyway. While both serve the same food, I’d suggest choosing the ‘bar’ option, where the vibe is looser.

Villa Spiza: Ul. Petra Kružića 3, 21000, Split, Croatia

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Konoba Lučac

While I’m getting all worked up about amazing down-home cooking, let’s talk about Konoba Lučac. The best way to describe this place is to use the following words; tavern, relaxed, unpretentious, and very, very good food. Eye- wateringly good food, even. Unlike several of the other taverns in town, the focus here is less upon fish, and more on meat. Like Vila Spiza, the prices here are very reasonable, and you’ll leave feeling full, content, and satisfied in the knowledge that you likely ate something that has been cooked in this same location for a very, very long time indeed. The locals know best - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, and Dalmatian cuisine certainly ain’t broke.

Konoba Lučac: Ul. Sv. Petra starog 2, 21000, Split, Croatia

THE SPLASH OUT

artičok

While I didn’t knowingly eat any artichoke at Artičok, I certainly did eat one of the most modern leaning meals that I tried whilst in Croatia. Whilst an irate Italian man at the next table complained idiotically about the ‘right way’ to make Ossobuco, I was happily eating away at the best take I’d had on the Mediterranean classic in years. We sampled some fish tartare, a beautiful Ossobucco, and some succulent beef cheeks that spoke volumes of the talent of the chefs behind the bar, and the quality of the ingredients they were using. The wine we sampled was similarly good, selected by one of the waiters - a local Plavac, which wen’t perfectly with the food. Artičok is certainly the most forward thinking restaurant in Split, and should be on your list if you’re looking for a nice night out, a creative take on classics, and some very excellent banter with the staff - they’re all excellent. Can’t recommend this place enough.

Artičok: Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 19, 21000, Split, Croatia