After eight hours on a northwards bound bus from Santiago, I was ready for respite. Hovering on deciding on another thirteen hours north to Antofagasta, or to stay in the mid north coast of Chile, I decided to trust my gut and bed down for a few nights in what seemed to be a charming seaside locale. La Serena provided me a haven amidst the dry northern reaches of Chile. My first visit to La Serena proved to be so convincing that I spent another night there on my return journey south back to Santiago. Don’t let popular opinion sway you - if you have the time, La Serena will enchant you.

la serena — LA SERENA

**WHERE**: Mid north coast of Chile (6 hours north of Santiago)
**WHY**: stopover on the way to the Atacama desert, excellent food and nightlife.
**TIME**: 2 nights.

UNDERSTAND

La Serena is located in the North of Chile. Situated right on the shore of the pacific ocean, the town was founded way back in 1544 over the top of a pre-hispanic town, Villuma. Few traces of the original village remain, as La Serena is dominated by colonial architecture - old lighthouses, vast sandstone churches and cobbled roads hold sway here. In short, the town is a little picturesque. More than a little picturesque even. The place is astoundingly pretty. However, it’s not all crumbling churches. La Serena is home to some of the longest and most bucolic beaches in Chile, stretching golden to the edge of the horizon in either direction. Beaches not your thing? Never fear, La Serena has even more to give - boasting the nearby Elqui Valley for sightseeing and prodigious pisco consumption. Not interested in drinking outside of the city limits? Don’t you worry - La Serena is a university town, so it veritably bristles with bars, restaraunts and nightclubs worthy of at least one hangover. In short, La Serena is worth your while.

GET IN

I traveled to La Serena by bus, which seems to be the most common mode of transport. Buses leave from Santiago daily, and due to the popularity of the route, all of the major bus companies (Pullman Bus, TurBus and Flota Barrios) service the route. The trip takes about 8 hours, and will cost you anywhere between $15 - $90 US depending on the company you go with and the level of comfort you opt for (NB: the trip takes 8 hours, save money by opting for semi-cama - you can spend the savings on pisco pretty fast). If you’re travelling from the north, the same companies offer daily routes from Antofagasta and Calama (13 - 15 hours). For this, I’d suggest shelling out for more comfort and getting a cama - expect to pay around $55-80 US.

If you can’t spare the eight hours on the dusty pan american, why not book yourself in for a flight north? Planes depart Santiago three times daily for La Serena - the trip is said to take about an hour - expect to pay at least $ 150 US for a one-way berth. Again - I’d recommend the bus - the views can be fantastic, and the comfort and quality of Chilean buses in unsurpassed throughout all of Latin America in my experience.

Heading to the Atacama Desert? Read my guide on the topic here.

GET AROUND

The CBD of La Serena is a foot pedestrians dream. The straight roads are tiled neatly, and most roads tend to run in a grid. Pretty well everything that you’d want to see within the city, whether it be the numerous museums, observatory, or a tour through one of vaunted churches is reachable by foot. While the east side of town tends to get a bit hilly, the majority of walking that you’ll be doing in La Serena is on the flat. While most of the nightclubs and bars are located to the south of town, the central section of La Serena boasta an impressive array of eateries that can be reached by foot from wherever you are staying. My suggestion - skip the bus or cab and get walking - the town will reward you for it.

WHAT TO DO

Chile

The verynicetravels guide to Chile.

The Beach: this one is easy. Walk east from wherever you are staying - see that big blue mess in front of you? That’s the ocean - immerse yourself there, and repeat as necessary. My personal pick for local beaches is Playa El Faro - take Francisco de Aguirre directly east from town to find one of the widest beaches you’ll ever see - take time to check out the famous lighthouse which gives the beach its name after frolicking in the aquamarine waves. For a less bustling beach, head south to Playa Cuatro Esquinas - the boardwalk running along shore provides the walker a less sand-inducing method of strolling along the coast.
La Recova Market: located right in the heart of town, La Recova provides the traveler a two-storey bazaar to explore - complete with fish fresh from the Pacific, local handicrafts, clothes and more food than your supermarket at home - anyone visiting La Serena should spend at least an hours in this often crowded complex; the experience is worthwhile and thoroughly local.
The Museums: Fancy the culture of Rapa-Niu but can’t afford the flight? You’re in luck - The Archaeological Museum of La Serena contains the only Easter Island figurehead to have toured Europe - get up close and personal with the monolith for $1 US. The museum also contains a fantastic array of artifacts from both the Tacalpa and Antofagasta cultures, and is certainly worth a visit.
Elqui Valley: Located about an hour out of the city, the lush Elqui Valley can be reached either through private tour or via a public collectivo bus. Famed not only for the lush splendor of the valley, the Elqui is known continent wide for its high quality pisco production. Take time whilst here to take a guided tour through Fundo Los Nichos to understand the distilling process - you’ll also have the opportunity to consume a fair amount of the grape liquor yourself. If you’ve the time to spare, a trip to the Elqui Valley wouldn’t be complete without a visit to one of its observatories, head to Obervatoria Mamalluca for stargazing opportunities.
Fray Jorge National Park: Right on the edge of the arid desert surrounding La Serena is one of the more unusual sights you’ll come across in northern Chile - a small patch of what appears to be rainforest (actually Valdivian temperate rain-forest, thank you very much). 2 hours south of La Serena lies the tiny Fray Jorge National Park. Get here via hired car or collectivo (leave on the hour at the central bus terminal). Entry is about $3 US and will be one of the cheaper national park entre fees that you’ll pay whilst in Chile. The park itself is fantastic - there are a variety of short day walks that you can complete without breaking too much of a sweat - when I visited I distinctly remember a Jurassic Park vibe. Beware however, amongst the mist and beautiful vistas that the park offers, pumas are said to roam.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostal El Punto: (Andres Bello 979). Excellent staff behind the desk - the rooms here are clean, orderly and safe. The hostel also has an included breakfast until 10:30. A dorm bed will set you back $12 US per night, and a double room from $30 US.
- stal Maria Casa: (Las Rojas) Has excellent rooms with shared bathrooms and kitchen. I slocated about 3 minutes from the bus station and 5 minutes frow downtown - a dorm room will set you back $15 US per night.
- Residencial Jofré: (Regimiento Coquimbo) Central La Serena. Has excellent rooms with private bathrooms, hot water, shared kitchen facilities, a TV room and free , fairly reliable internet. US$23/double.
- Aji Verde Hostel: (Vicuña 415). Excellent hostel, right in the centre of town by the market. This is my personal pick for La Serena - the dorm rooms are clean, the privates are spacious and the staff are always helpful and keen to share a beer. Has an amazing inner courtyard that provides the perfect space for a beer at the end of a long day. A dorm room here will start from $13 US.
- Hotel Palma de Mallorca: (Cordovez 750) Very nice old hotel in a very central location; can be one of few places with rooms during high season. Single rooms start from $35 US per night.

WHERE TO EAT

As the second largest city in Chile, La Serena is home to a huge variety of eateries and a massive variety of food to choose from. The food here is generally unpretentious, tasty, and with a strong emphasis on fresh seafood. La Serena holds a special place in my heart as the location of my first Ceviche whilst in South America - the delicious citrusy goodness providing the perfect tonic to my then hangover.

Daniella II: (Av Francisco, 335). Known for it’s strong focus on local fare, Daniella II is a spot that is highly popular with locals, but is one that seems to be gaining traction with travellers as well.
Ayawasi: (Pedro Pablo Munoz 566). Ayawasi is one of the city’s few truly vegetarian restaurants. Tasty homemade dishes including salads, sandwiches with fresh bread, and soup are the ticket here. Local artisan beer is on tap, and the drinks menu is expansive.
Cafe Rapsodia: (Arturo Prat 470) Rapsodia serves traditional Chilean dishes in a renovated mansion right in the heart of La Serena.. It is composed of several smaller rooms which all look out onto an inner courtyard, with a signature giant palm tree at the centre. Stop here for a cheap (ish) feed amidst the former colonial splendor.
Jack Fish: ( Juan de Dios Peni 508). The local specialist in ceviche and sushi. The place is tiny, seating about 6 tables. The service here is personal, with the owner doubling as a waiter. Go for some share plates - the portion sizes are generous, the ceviche is amazing, and the sushi delicious. Well worth shelling out a few extra dollars for.
Lighthouse Coffee: (Matta 570). My personal pick for a coffee specialist in town - the owner serves up a good range of filter and espresso based coffee - collating beans from around the world (the kenyan was amazing whilst I was there). Definitely stop for a coffee or light lunch - an easy front runner for a best coffee in La Serena.

WHERE TO DRINK

La Rocca: (Eduardo De La Barra 569) Looking for a quiet beer? La Rocca is your best bet. Mainly catering to the backpacker crowd, this centrally located pub serving up affordable beers and cocktails. La Rocca always seems to be busy - the small bar room and attached patio usually teeming with travelers looking to socialize
Club De Jazz: (Oscar Aldunate 739). Easuily my pick of the litter for drinking holes in La Serena. Club De Jazz can be found inside of a neoclassical home, and actually has a marble staircase as its centre piece. While Club De Jazz is a bit of a walk from the main tourist drag, it boasts what is easily the best wine list in northern Chile and is a favourite amongst locals.
Takuba: (Eduardo e la Barra, 589) Takuba is located just a few doors up from La Rocca, and provides a more mellow, tavern style experience for those looking to imbibe whilst in La Serena. The prices here are slightly higher than at La Rocca - but the food is good, the vibe is relaxed, and the atmosphere extremely welcoming.
Kamanga: (Costanera 4785). Kamanga is a pub and nightclub located on the shoreline, right at the southern point of the town next to the border with Coquimbo. The bar also offers small plates of food, such as sushi, and offers two-for-one deals on drinks every now and again. If you are looking for a quiet spot to warm up before hitting the nightclubs of Coquimbo, you won’t find a better bar.