VALPARAISO

**WHERE**: Central Chile, 1 hour east of Santiago.
**WHY**: Bohemian culture, excellent nightlife, great street art.
**TIME**: 3-4 nights.

You’ve just escaped the dusty streets of Santiago for the blissful seaside climes of Valparaiso. In two days time you have a bus heading north to La Serena (or south to Osorno). How do you spend two days here without breaking the bank?

DAY 1

9:00 am - 10:30 am

Drop your bags at the hostel, strap on a pair of walking shoes and head outside - you’re going to be spending the morning on your feet. However, any good journey requires the right fuel, and this morning your first stop will be at the Melbourne Cafe in Plaza Sotomayar. Here you can get an Australian quality espresso based coffee for a reasonable price, and a sandwich to boot. You can even order a Flat White worthy of any lane way in Fitzroy, which, for any Australians overseas, can be an experience bordering on the religious. Caffeine under your belt, you’re now walking the gorgeous streets of this town. Your purpose? Street art.

10:30 am - 2:00 pm

No street is alike in Valparaiso - and each corner will greet you with another dazzling display of vibrant street art, stunning mosaics and more colours than you’d see on a coral reef. Head uphill, away from the port. Take whatever street you like - each is beautiful. For a truly magical climb, take Urriola street - but don’t be afraid to take side streets, cutting through plaza, park and backyard alike. The plan here is to soak it in, take in the gorgeous graffiti and stunning colonial architecture.

Walk towards Templeman 682, start fork the bottom and work your way up to the awesome mosaic, ‘We are not hippies, we are happies,’ by English artists ‘Art + Believe’ . Fight through the crowds to get the perfect pose atop the stunning mosaic (I’d advise doing a prayer hands and a deep squat). From here you can see the distance you’ve come so far, the unending cobblestone pathway trailing back towards the aquamarine glow of the ocean. Don’t get caught in the vision though - look further down the street to see the excellent and kaleidoscopic collaboration between two Chilean Artists, Charquipunk and Daniel Marceli, which combines their surrealist vision of natural symbolism of Chile with the gritty landscape of Valparaiso. Twirling whales and fish melt with a lynx (or is it an ocelot?) along a stairway, inviting the viewer along a veritable LSD trip of street art.

Let the streets guide you now, taking each inviting alleyway and cobblestone passage that you can find. Along the way you’ll pass a host of inviting cafes and bars. For a quick pit stop consider Cafe del Pintor and ask for the Menu Del Dia, for a hearty feed that is big on flavor and substance. For something smaller and faster, head to Café entre Cerros (Gálvez 199, inside of Gallerías Galvez ). Feeling more local fare? Head to Restoran Capri, where you can have a seafood soup within 10 minutes and pick up a few phrases in Spanish at the same time.

Don't rest on your laurels just yet - you’re next stop is decidedly classic. You’re now making your way to the to the Alecón Fine Hostel at Abtao 682, remembering to look around you the whole time - street art genuinely oozes from the seams on these streets, at each corner and passageway you’ll be met with another explosion of colour and style. Once at Abtao 682 look up, and you’ll see a piece dedicated to the master composer, Beethoven. A perfect piano keyboard lights up an alleyway, trailing a path up (yet another) steep gradient to the next plateau of the town.

Trail your way along now to Pasaje Galvez, the final stop on this veritable smorgasbord of art, vision, and sore feet. You’ll find the passage off Cerro Allegre, a tiny crevice in the street that is one of my favourite spots in the entire city. Once there you’ll be met with a cobblestone passage lined by looming street art - think hanging mermaids, soaring local imagery, and inspirational quotes. Around the passage you’ll see a host of stalls and small cafes, often displaying work by local designers art artists.

3:00 pm - 5:00 pm

Tired? It’s approaching the end of the day. The sun is approaching the edge of the horizon, and golden hour is coming. Time for a beer or Vino? Absolutely. Head towards Bar Liberty (9 Almirante Riveros) for a stiff drink and soak in that view. If history is more your thing, head to Bar Cinzano (1192,, Plaza Aníbal Pinto), where they’ve been helping customers imbibe for over 116 years. If you haven’t yet tried the national cocktail, head to Poblenou (Urriola 476) to have a Pisco sour as the sun sets. Watch as the last golden rays light up the street art below you as you sip on the drink that wars have (nearly) been fought over.

6:00 pm - 10: 00 pm

You’ve had a big day. Your feet are sore. I understand, I truly do. You might not feel like heading out. You might not even feel like leaving your bed. What are you going to do, stay in your hostel all night? Absolutely not - you’ve got dinner plans. If you’ve money to burn, try Fauna. It’s going to lighten your pocket, but there is a reason that its the most recommended dinner spot in the city. Go for the view and the mixed platter for two - you won’t regret it. For those looking to spend some money but couldn’t get in at Fauna, El Peral could be your ticket. Serving up the classics with a distinctly modern flare, this tucked away spot will serve you an unforgettable ceviche, and has a list of cocktails that are too good to skip over.

For those looking to save a dollar or two, but can’t stand the thought of another spaghetti bolognese in the communal hostel kitchen, Valparaiso has options. El Pimenton will have you rubbing shoulders with locals as they tuck down on Chorillana, empanadas and corn stew pie. Better yet, the spot won’t send you broke, and you could afford to eat here three meals a day for the next year without calling in the bank of mum and dad. For another option, try out Delicias Express for the cheapest empanadas in the city.

If you’re hankering for a drink after dinner, take yourself on a tour of the local bars. Stop by for a beer at the Altamira Brewery at the foot of Cerro Alegre. If you’re feeling thirsty, try the float of excellent locally brewed hops here - my personal pick was a local IPA that wen’t down like honey. If you’re feeling lively, poke your head to Rincon de las Guitarras for a true taste of the bohemian nightlife that the city does so well. Here you can have a beer or cocktail whilst local musicians ply their trade on stage - if you' aren’t dancing on stage by midnight then it’s time to ask yourself where you’ve gone so wrong.

DAY 2

9:00 - 12:00

Feeling a bit weary from last night? Head ringing? Dry mouth? There’s a cure for that. This morning, drag yourself down to Chinchero Own Taste (Urriola, 377) for an espresso, cold juice, and hearty breakfast. If you didn’t overdo the empanada’s yesterday, be sure to try one out for breakfast, the combination of empanada to coffee is one that was surely made in heaven. Next, you’re stepping back out onto those cobbled streets for a hit of culture. You’re walking now towards La Sebastina (Calle Ferrari, 692), to visit the house and museum of the famed Chilean Poet, Pablo Neruda. The walk from the centre of town up the lengthy streets to La Sebastina will surely enliven the senses and prepare you for a quick wander through the master poets old home. Take time to read his ode to the city of Valparaiso before wandering amidst the beautiful chaos of his museum - however, the museum operates on a ‘first come, first served’ basis, so be sure to get there early to avoid any disappointment. Soak in the living space of this great figure in Chilean literature before stepping back out onto the grimy, glorious streets of Valparaiso.

12:00 -3:00

Surely you’re not sick of the view of this city just yet? One of your last stops on this 48 hour trip through the city of Valparaiso will be right at the zenith of the city. Mercifully, this time, however, you won’t be walking. Take a quick walk through to the Ascencor Concepcion - the archaic funicular that continues to ferry any resident or traveller looking to ascend Cerro Concepion. Ignore the creaking as you ascend, take in that view, watch as the pacific ocean blooms out from the port city, endless blue stretching out from the varicoloured jungle of houses. When you reach the top, take a seat by the lookout and soak it in - you’ll struggle to find a more inspiring view in the country. If sublime beauty isn’t your thing, walk around the streets at this apex of the city, a host of murals and more street art crowd the passages and walkways here.

4:00 pm - 7:00 pm

You’ve done it. You’ve seen some of the best sights the city has to offer. You’ve taken in street art, sublime views, local culture, and hopefully an empanada or three. What do you do now? If you’re feeling that slight bit parched, the best call seems to be to head to the bar. If you’re looking for some diversity, try out Bar La Playa (Serrano 567). Here you can soak in a true ‘tavern’ vibe whilst you nurse your beer and watch a game of football. The selection of the local drop is fantastic, varied, and overall tasty, so should you choose to imbibe into the night you won’t be lacking for choice.

7:00 pm - 10:00 pm

The last supper. All good things must come to an end, and you’re going out here in style. You’ve got your choices laid out before you for a last bite to eat before bed. For a fantastic cocktail and tasty local fare, Casa Luisa (Almirante Montt 533) has you covered. If you’re looking for a side of live jazz with a burger and beer, Casa Cervecera Altamira (Av. Elias 126, Valparaíso) is your ticket to ride. If your appetite is prodigious then Restaurant El Pimentón (Av. Ecuador 27) will surely have you covered. Here you can entangle yourself with the seemingly omnipresent dish, Chorillana (meat, french fries, egg - combine). If you’ve some spare time after dinner and are feeling whimsical, walk yourself down to the port to watch ships entering and leaving the harbour. The soothing rocking of ships in the harbour should be enough to lull all bu the must jovial towards bed.

And there you have it. A jam-packed 48 hours in this jewel of Chile, Valparaiso. If you’re staying for longer, consider taking one of the many walks (paseos) that the city has to offer. Both the Ruben Dario walk and the Carvallo walk will leave you spellbound as they wind their way through colonial street to the seaside in dazzling fashion. For the history buff. The Naval and Maritime Museum (Paseo May 21) will quench any need for learning.

This city has been ensnaring travelers since its port first opened, and my money is on the city continuing to entrance and captivate each new visitor. Give yourself time to explore this entrancing seaside destination - soak in the bohemian atmosphere, eat delicious food and take time to read a book in one of the many stunning plazas that dot the city centre.

Have any further suggestions for Valparaiso? Let us know what you’d recommend in the comments below.

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