The ‘W’ trek
Ah, ‘W’ trek. I was never meant to have completed you this way. Fortune, however, was not smiling upon me in 2014 when I forced into completing the ‘W’ trek west to east after being turned back whilst on the ‘O’ circuit at Camp Seron. Given this, I feel as though i now have the requisite wisdom to provide any looking to about the ‘W’ trek east to west - have a read, learn from my mistakes. If you want more information about Torres Del Paine, and need some advice on preparing, please also check out this post here.
day 1: Las Torres
Your first day in the park - your first goal after entering the park is to hike west to Hotel Las Torres - it’s a massive lodge looking building that is in the middle of a field. The way is pretty easy, and there is an obvious path the whole way along. Once you reach the campsite at Torre Central you should dump your packs at the refugio ($5 US) - you won’t be needing them on the journey up. Today is going to be tough. After setting up you’ll be making the two hour journey up the hill alongside the Rio Ascencio to the base of ‘Las Torres’ themselves. When I did this portion of the hike there was a lot of snow on the trail - make sure you’re wearing hiking boots - take your time getting up there. Take in the glorious sight of the towers, but make sure you start your descent well before sunset - the path down can be hellishly treacherous if trying to navigate without light. Once you reach your campground you’ve got the option of either staying there, or taking the three hour hike westwards to Los Cuernos. My advice is to hike west to Los Cuernos that afternoon - you’ll give yourself way more time for the next few days of hiking.
The camping facilities at Torre Central are pretty good, you’ll have access to outdoor tables, some hot showers, a bar, and a shop with basic food. It will cost you $20 to do so.
The campsite at Cuernos is set on raised wooden platforms, you’ll generally be pitching your tent on one of these platforms - tying it down on the available hooks. Most of the platforms are set against trees and shrubs, so you should be able to get a bit of shelter from the wind. There is also the option of hanging out inside the lodge here - an extremely good option once sun sets and after such a large day of hiking. They’ve got food, alcohol and some board games from memory. You’ll pay $20 US to camp on the campgrounds here.
Book Torre Central at: https://www.fantasticosur.com/en/mountain-lodges/torre-central-and-torre-norte-mountain-lodges/
Book Los Cuernos at: https://www.fantasticosur.com/en/mountain-lodges/cuernos-mountain-lodges-and-camping/
day 2: French Valley
OK, day two - your legs are feeling sore, you’ve certainly felt more energized. However, today is easily my favourite day of the hike. Try and get up early, as you’ve got a full day of hiking ahead of you. Step one is to head further along west from either the Torre Central or Los Cuernos Campground until you reach Los Frances, which shouldn’t take you any longer than an hour from Los Cuernos or 5 hours from Torre Central - you’ll be sleeping at Camp Frances tonight - so drop off your packs, set up your tent (I promise you won’t feel like it later). The campsite at Los Frances is a bit more basic - here there is less shelter, and you’ll be pitching your tent on the ground. There are still facilities like water and toilets here. Expect to pay $20 US to stay here.
Once your tent is set up, it’s time to ascend the middle ‘arm of the ‘W’ trek. Today you’ll be hiking amidst the glorious French Valley right up the lookout Britanico (Mirador Britanico). Today is utterly stunning as far as walks go, depending on the time of year the trees about you could be thoroughly autumnal - you’ll pass by skeletal forests in a dried out lake bed, up large boulders and underneath looming branches. I cannot talk this section of the hike up enough. Once you reach the lookout at Britanico, you get to do it all again, expect in reverse. Spend the night at Los Frances - cook yourself a hot meal using the water on offer, if my experience is anything to go by, you’ll be somewhat cold tonight.
https://www.fantasticosur.com/en/mountain-lodges/camping-frances/
day 3: camp grey
Its your third day of hiking, and guess what? You need to get up early - it’s a long day ahead. Once you’ve gotten moving you’ll be once again heading west - follow the trail until you come upon Lake Pehoe - after about 2 hours of hiking you should reach Paine Grande campsite, however, don’t leave your packs this time, you’re going to need them tonight. Head north from the campsite and follow the trail up the valley. The trail should be clearly marked and easily navigable for the first half an hour or so. From memory the way can be pretty tricky in spots after this - expect a fairly steep gradient. After hiking for about 3 hours you should reach Camp Grey. Set up your tent, cook a quick meal and then you need to head straight to those showers - anyone staying at Camp Grey can expect access to the showers (the outdoors ones). As per usual you’ll be paying $20 US to sleep here. Depending on your vibe you can have a few drinks inside the refugio or go straight to bed - however, my advice, have a drink, you’ve just finished the hard part.
Book your campsite at Vertice Patagonia;
DAY 4: GLACIER GREY TO PAINE GRANDE
Last day in Torres Del Paine. Good news for you though, the hard part is over. Start the morning off by heading an hour up the trail until you reach the lookout over Glacier Grey - an absolute amazing sight and definitely worth the extra hike. Try and get here for sunrise - the way the light bounces off the ice is truly worth the rough start. Once your sublime-viewing needs are sated you’ll be heading back down the trail away from the glacier back to Camp Grey. Gather your things, and head back down the valley to Paine Grande campsite. The way down should take about 2 hours. If you leave early enough you should be able to catch a pre-lunchtime catamaran that leaves from the dock here. The catamaran will take about half an hour to get you back to Pudeto - from here you’ll be back on your bus to Puerto Natales
The views. Oh, the views.
Have a different idea for how to hike the ‘W’ circuit? Let us know about it in the comments below!